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Ditto on what Doghead has suggested. I have this same setup and no problems.
And remember boys and girls the first rule of owning a CUCV. If its rubber replace it, if its electrical clean it.
There should be a procedure on the drivers sun visor. If not the TM #9-2320-289-10 starting on page 1-13 will give you some ideas.
On my 1008, Once in the seat, turn key on notice that the proper lights are lit, wait for the WAIT light to go off, tickle the go pedal, turn key engine should...
Change out the fuel filter, read up on it so that you can bleed it out properly. I'm thinking that it might be partly clogged as you could only maintain 25mph on a 8% grade.
Nice save, looks well worth what you paid, you did good.
And remember boys and girls, the first rule of owing a CUCV, "If its rubber replace it, if its electrical clean it".
Welcome aboard, changing glow plugs is an easy job if none have swelled up.
I first used wellmans and just recently changed to AC 60g's changed out the spade connectors and resupplied the GPR with 12 volts about a 1hr job.
I towed mine back from up near Ft Drum, Actually from Dogheads. With my E250, I had magnetic lights duct taped to the shackels, I had a plate for in in the truck. Took the spare from my M1008. It towed like a dream at 70/75 MPH with full cover on. Left DH's about 2100 hrs and arrived home at 300.
Flyingfrog, I had my heads off last winter for the same reason. I read that if it hydrolocks you could possibly bend a connecting rod.
You can probably have the heads off in 2.5 to 3 hrs, I was using a air ratchet for take down, not for build up. I had one cracked head that had to be replaced...
I was scanning the TM's last night looking to find the procedure to remove the M1008 heater core and I came across a section on fender and inner removal. I didn't find what I was looking for, But I did see the fender subject in the -34 IIRC.