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Anthony5957 is a good troop, I have known him personally for over 30 years. I can swear to his honesty and ability. If you can help him out I am sure that he will not disappoint you.
When I reinstalled my heads and intake, I had the lines off and did not remove the IP. When tightening the lines I used a crows foot on a extension and a ratchet handle. I did tape and number each line when removed.
I took mine off last summer I don't recall anything special about removing it, as stated above several screws across the front and some clips near the glass that you have to wiggle free.
I just dropped it off to have it hydrographic covered along with the door panels.
Welcome. If you get some long bolts, about 8" you can slide the trans back while supporting the tail with a floor jack and replace the flexplate{flywheel}. Broken starter bolt can sometimes be harder than others just be patient.
My theory on my M1008 is if its rubber replace it, if its...
I would purchase a few raffle tickets, providing logistics are in place to store it just in case a non attending member wins it and has no means to transport it.
Make sure you check the lights if you go the H.F. route, I had to rewire mine and I know of a few others that had to rewire theirs. Other than that we ductaped them to the rear shackels and they stayed there for the 6hr trip home.
Ditto on the vac lines. Pull the airfilter assy there is one under it on the drivers side, and also on the modulator on the passanger side of trans.
If its rubber replace it, if its electrical clean it, just my rule of thumb on my cucv.