Search results

yeah, the fuel line check should be good enough for what you want to do. Just make sure you get it in the correct way.

Unfortunately Jerry, without the relief/check valve I'm afraid your gauge will just jump around with the cylinder strokes. It will build pressure and relieve pressure each stroke. Even wet gauges are responsive enough to catch that kind of difference as slow as the engine rotates while...

We care about posting links that go dead because of future users. Let's say that someone buys a truck from GL, and then the post that they won said truck and provide a link. This is within the rules and eventually the link will go dead...not a big deal. Now let's use the same example, but...

Jerry, If you are pumping out heavy blue smoke, I would be looking at doing a compression test before I looked at injectors. Blue smoke is typically oil and not fuel. I think you may have some bad rings or bad valve seals.

I must have the worlds Best or worst timing...you can look at it anyway you want to. From the posts it looks like the site went down last night around 2300...I had just logged off shortly before that. Today I logged in about 2 or 3 minutes after the site came back up :beer: Boy was I...

That is your fuel delivery valve. From what you are seeing...you need to rebuild the pump. You may have gotten it freed up with the carb cleaner, but something inside wasn't free...now it needs rebuilt.

No, it shouldn't be. The only thing I might have left out is "If you have things hooked up properly, anytime you are running the set the frame will be grounded" It doesn't matter if you have it hooked up permanently to a transfer switch, through a cord and plug or as a stand alone generator...

where exactly would this be? If you flow timed the pump and it didn't help much, then I'll bet the pump itself needs rebuilt. This should have been the first thing you went to before injectors. The fact that you should have been your fist clue the pump needs rebuild. Just because you freed...

Your last post should be self evident if you think about the question. Your generator frame, whether used in a Non SDS or an SDS, is ALWAYS grounded. It must be or bad things can happen (to you if something goes wrong with the wiring). That is why you are running 4 wires for the hook-up, one...

I don't think the Banty Rooster strut is what he's talking about. :grd:

So, I take it that, you are not going to go to the GA rally? And once again I have to miss the farm party aua aua

I'll be working midnights that weekend, but I can find time to come over in the morning one day. Let me know Keep in mind, that load bank ain't pretty, but it's functional

I've got a winch I have to pick up, so there is going to be some kind of get together out there...even if it's just Kip and I for 10 minutes.

One problem at a time. Replace the oil pressure switch and see if you get the breaker issue figured out. After you do that, start it again and (you may need a soldier "B" for this). While you are starting it, gently hold up on the fuel shut-off solenoid. It should stay running while you hold...

You may have an issue with the wiring harness or possibly a grounded switch. Start off by metering the high temp switch to ground. Use the meter and check each pin of the connector where it goes INTO the air box to ground. You should have no continuity to ground on those two pins. If they...

Maybe they even Explode????

Verify you have the transducer hooked up properly and that you have 120 volts feeding it. If you do, then you probably have a bad transducer. It may have been good on the other unit, but there is no guarantee it is good now.

Don't confuse Ground with Neutral !!! The GROUND comes from the ground rod or your home's grounding system. The Neutral wire is what completes the 120 volt circuit

No matter what configuration you use. The GROUND always goes to the split-bolt connector on the frame under the control panel.

Ha Ha....no doubt!!