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Sounds nice, but you can't play with the trucks there from what I see.

I don't think it's an injector unless it's spraying too much fuel (usually doesn't happen, typically just the opposite). It's probably compression related. Could be a valve adjustment or a problem with the cylinder. I would lean toward the valves to start with. That would be the easiest...

If it was that much brake fluid you would know for sure...you wouldn't have any brakes and the fluid level would be very low. I'm gonna quess a bad seal in the front axle and that is a mixture of grease from the boot and gear lube from the leaky seal.

I don't know if you can handle Kips 1009. The one thing 1stSarge forgot to mention is that we had to specially modify kips truck since he's only 3 feet tall :shock:. The average man can't fit into it any longer. By they way, welcome from the S.E. part of the state. And like Wreckerman said...

Put me down for one XXL Tan Short Sleeve. I will pick it up at the rally. Thanks

Read post #25...#20 was before I started digging deeper into the NEC

I suggest that everybody start to clean up the talk in this thread or I am going to close it. It's one thing to discuss the types of dye used in ATF vs. Red Diesel, and discuss reporting people running dyed fuel on the highways. But, contriving to purposely break the law by finding ways to...

Pulling the head is not that big of a deal. It's more of a PITA putting it back on. I was going to suggest a rear main be what you were describing. The parts you listed are for the oil pressure regulator, probably not the issue.

It's not the oil cooler at all. That is on the wrong end of the motor. There is no inspection port...I'm afraid you are going to have to pull the gen head and flywheel off to find the source of the leak. Even if you can see it with a mirror or bore scope, you'll need to pull the head and...

Flow time the pump. When you are using the PC mark, you are relying on a pointer bolted to the side of the housing to point to the right location...are you sure it's pointing to the right location or did someone move it a little??? Before you spend money on the injectors, especially if it ran...

I think G has you on the right track and has a good idea. Spray the pin and clevis down with PB Blaster and let is sit for a few hours, and do it again, and maybe again if you are not in a hurry. This will loosen things up some. Take a piece of round metal bar stock a little smaller in...

DUH!! I knew that aua aua aua I forgot that it had the other part through opening of the clevis. It's been a LONG time since I've had to do the clutch adjustment

Do you have the room to rotate the clevis? The clevis is threaded onto the rod and held tight with a jam nut. Loosen the nut, hold the rod with some pliers elsewhere (where you have room) and rotate the clevis to orient it as the one in G's picture. Then just tighten the jam nut back up and...

You're probably just gonna have to drop the driveshaft for the winch until you get the clutch adjusted.

Did you get your RPM issue straightened out yet?

That's a very cool set-up Rosco. I like it [thumbzup]

Yes, he has a point...but for those of us with blond wives or pets...black is a royal pain in the a$$.

Richard, thanks again for doing this with the shirts. I can only imagine how much of a pain it is. Once the official thread starts, I'm gonna sign up for 1 or more. This year, I'll be there to pick it up myself.

You do not always have to install a transfer switch. The interlock kits are an approved means of disconnect for generator installations and are widely used. They are UL approved, and safe to use and install. It is up to the individual whether they want to use one or go for a full blown...

I made my own interlock plate, and I like it just fine. It is heavier duty than the ones you buy, and very solid. They work good for what they do. It's not like you're going to be using it daily, your breakers are not rated to be used as switches anyway (They make special breakers that are to...