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No, I don't think you're thinking is flawed. There are several of us who had that problem. But as I understand it, they used 2 types of input bearings in the transmissions. A "shielded" cage kind as can be seen in Drews Pics and an "open" cage. The open cage ones are supposed to be the ones...

The problem with running cables a long distance is the voltage drop involved. The internal resistance of the wire creates the drop. But, the more amperage you put through the wire means more heat...which means more resistance, and more drop. There are simple plug in voltage drop calculators...

First off, use the small switch under the meter to check voltage on both L1 and L3 and see if you have voltage showing on the meter. Then, if you do have voltage on the meter, try cycling your main breaker on and off a few times. There was just a member on here who had a bad breaker and it...

I agree with the "If it ain't broke" part, but for a $20 seal and the fact that you already have it apart????? As to turning the pressure plate and flywheel, I have no idea what that would cost. The part numbers I posted were the rear main seal parts numbers so you can buy them from any...

The parts aren't that expensive....at least I hope not. I think my clutch disk was less than $130. If the flywheel and pressure plate surfaces are smooth and true, just replace the disk. And Check the throwout bearing good while you have it apart If you have to go that far. Good luck.

treva2, please enter a city into your profile location. It will help down the road if you are in need of assistance so people can tell if they are close to you or not.

I always thought you looked a bit like Rodney Dangerfield. I can't get no respect!!!!!

You're overthinking it. With the clutch pedal lightly depressed only until resistance is felt (you should be able to pull the linkage from under the truck by hand to that point). Measure from the face of the bellhousing bolt flange (Item 17) to the center of the hole in the linkage (Item 15)...

Here it is...Pulled the transmission today!!!

It's possible that your clutch plate is just bad. I'm gonna find the link to my clutch replacement thread in a minute, I't's not a "Step by Step" but it's not bad. When I did mine the clutch was just about shot. There isn't much material on them to begin with. I don't know if it's true or...

First off let me state I DO NOT own a CUCV. I would LIKE to own one but do not. That being said. What makes the CUCV any more valuable than a civi diesel blazer. It is still essentially a 25 year old civilian truck with only a few mods for military use. Nothing tactical about it. I don't...

I don't see anybody flocking to contradict that statement rofl :jumpin: rofl

We can close them if it really bothers you, that way they will not get posted to any longer thereby not showing up in the "new posts" results. But as Kenny said, we don't like to delete unless it's bad

I'm gonna go ahead and close this thread so it doesn't get confused any longer.

How about I just close it for you....we don't like to delete threads round these parts

I made my own Technically Informative "Sticker"

Yup. One of the first mods I did to the deuce after I got it home. I went cheap and just got a spare dash light from a scrap yard and installed it though

I did some searching. The original filter was sourced from Cummins Filtration, part # 85285-F. I can't find any manufacturers that cross over to that filter #. You might call Cummins Filtration tomorrow and see what they have to say. I did however find an e-bay seller with some...I think...

dumb question, but do you have the original filter? That's a good starting place to find a cross

The inspection plate is a rectangular plate right behind the fording plug. Take it off and have someone work the clutch in and out while you spray a couple of cans of brake cleaner up in and all over the clutch surfaces you can get it on