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I just ordered the FV-65038 valve from Jamestown Distributors. Thanks for your help.

I don’t recall seeing that part during my M1028 rebuild. It kinda looks like it screws to the wall in the bathroom.

Heck, that lever is so easy to operate, Ray Charles could it blindfolded.

Just so you and others will know, when I clicked on the link, my Norton Internet Security blocked a virus hack. You probably should take that link down. Just my 2 cents.

Um....... which company?

CORRECTION - I made one small error in calculation, so the correct Driven Gear will be the 37-tooth Red gear, GM part #1359271. Still used with the #25512340 sleeve. Sorry for my error.

Ok I have worked it out for everyone running 37's with 4.56 axle ratio. To correct the speedometer, you will need the 38-tooth Blue Driven Gear, GM Part #1359272, along with the #25512340 sleeve. Hope this helps.

Tex - I have an account with Jamestown Distributors and will order the valve tomorrow. Which valve did you buy? There are 2 listed, 1 “L” shape rotation and the other is a “T” shaped rotation. Thanks.

Yes you are correct. But the proper tach was a 5000 rpm gauge, and for a diesel with a sweet spot around 2000-2400 rpm, the needle was always in the lower end. The “big truck” tach was a 4000 rpm gauge and therefore the gauge needle is more responsive in the lower end. Those 4000 rpm tachs have...

OK, based on Item #12, Figure 83 in the 34P TM, the Drive Gear is a GM part #14037997 which is a gray 15-tooth Drive Gear. So here is the formula to determine the correct Driven Gear based on axle ratio and tire size: # of Drive Gear teeth X axle ratio X (20168 divided by tire diameter)...

Rick - no, I'm just trying to develop an easy chart for all SS members to use so they can correct their speedometers based on tire size. The Driven Gears are readily available on Ebay. There are a total of twelve (12) of them, ranging in teeth count from 34 to 45.

The speedometer is controlled by a "Drive Gear" inside the NP208 transfer case and a "Driven Gear" mounted inside a removable sleeve on the side of the transfer case, to which the speedometer cable is attached. GM offered (and still offers) various teeth counts on both "Drive Gears" and Driven...

I too am planning on adding a factory auxiliary tank and like yourself I don’t want the switch. I’m also planning to install a factory 4000 RPM tach in place of the existing fuel gauge. The tach has a small fuel gauge in the bottom which I also dislike, so here’s what I am considering - I’m...

Yes I am interested. PM me with a price and we will try to make it happen. Thanks Rick.

Rick - thanks for getting the fuel door assembly for me. It will be the finishing touch for the factory auxiliary tank install. Yes I think I know where a NOS fuel cap is. Now all I need to decide is a source for the auxiliary tank. Do you have any experience with those LMC tanks? Or would you...

The manifold is not bolted down yet. The GEP tape is still covering the openings in the heads. I still need to connect the flexible fuel line from the FFM to the IP and make one last adjustment to the TV cable, and then I’ll be ready to remove the factory tape and bolt her down. At that time I...

17120. I provide more details in the last post of my rebuild thread.

The new Derale 17120 fan arrived and got it installed. The front of the P400 is now finished. All that is left is to finish fabricating the bracket for the Spinner centrifugal oil filter and a small bracket to stabilize the custom fuel line to the FFM, and a few odds and ends. Everything on...

The Derale fan came in. Got it installed. Front of the beast is finished.

Got the Wilson remanufactured Delco 27Si alternators installed, along with new pulleys, fans, and Gates belts. I decided to go with remanufactured alternators instead of rebuilding used OEM units myself. I purchased a pair of used CUCV units from a vendor on this site with the intention of...