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Under the dash there is a 10mm hex head bolt on the very right side. Under the hood there are 3 or 4 11mm hex head nuts on studs. Remove the heater hoses carefully from the heater core stems. carefully because they are going to adhere themselves to the heater core connections and you must gentle...

Elektroman99 I think these are the parts you are looking for. Took me a while to find the 4WD shift bezel. Many are trashed. I hope that helps.

As sad as it may be I have been employed as a vehicle crusher. I crushed lots of vehicles. Memories of several Blazers, pickups, Suburbans from the 60”s thru the late 80s. Many Scouts , Jeeps. Pony cars, thousands over the years. That was and still is what happens to vehicles that are worn out...

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No, it is engineless. It is a Pacer X with a factory tach and full gauge console. It was a stick shift car, but it had a 6 cylinder in it. It needs lots of TLC. Are you interested? My Son said he wants to put a 6.0 in it. I don't see that happening soon.

These are the troop seat uppers that I have. If they interest you I will get a quote

Did he give you the hood ornament? I sanded and painted that carefully

Very nice. I see that it has a hole in the hood where the Chevrolet hood emblem was. That hood was off of a 1986 Chevrolet Suburban that was fully equipped, and it was the only highly optioned Suburban I ever seen that had a factory 4 speed granny low 4 Speed in it. It had every option...

Take the hood hinge bolts off and let the hood attached to the assist springs

Going in start and remove the wiper motor and loosen the clamp on the motor ball to linkage. Do not take the nut from the motor shaft. Take the hood hinges only off and allow the springs to remain attached to the hood . Let the hood arch up and tilt forward. Now remove the entire metal and...

If it were my truck I would clean and repair the pinch weld area of the cab. That vent is leaking because the cowl area has some issues with cracked sealer or rust in that area. The vents only ever had sponge rubber seals. Getting the water away from the top quickly and not allowing it to dam up...

That blue wire goes to a fuel pump on the M1010 models. The fuel pump is mounted on the left inner fender and pumps fuel to the rear diesel fired heater in the rear of the M1010. It is not used on other units and does not get attached to anything. I think it also is used on the winterization kit...

Here are some more things I found. The CUCV electric book is a very informative book on the CUCV glow plug system. Very helpful

I had a new furnace put in 2 weeks ago. I had to move lots of things in my basement. My wife used to tell me she had lots of CUCV parts for me. She would buy them on EBay or where ever she found them. She always took great interest in the parts I said were hard to come by. I found one of here...

This is what a new resistor looks like.

You don't need that capacitor. The wire will plug directly into the fan motor.

I had this issue on several plow trucks, and I had an electrical shop put a separate relay in for the blower motor. I never done it to my own trucks but customers with snowplow trucks found that low glowing light annoying and that solved the issue. Running 24 hours straight with everything...

Strip out some of the interior and check it out.

Ok. I see one of these capacitors over on the heater end on the firewall. I don't know that there are capacitors on the heater side. Maybe 1 on the blower motor wire. This piece is attached to the black tin cover under the hood on the heater box cover. Flat ribbon of brightly colored wires blue...

Next step is to strip the cab dash area down this far and start spraying water. That will tell you where it is coming in. I recommend having the windshield installed. Good Luck.