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Rust is a possibility. The seam sealer is also very dry and brittle. Finding a water leak on a internet thread is going to an endless mission. These trucks are 40 years old and have been kicked, drilled, modified and beat since day 1.

No this is screwed to the outside of the heater box behind the battery. It has 2 small 7mm hex head screws holding it in place. And I think those 3 round things on the wiper motor are capacitors. They are to reduce noise and avoid interference with radio equipment. Police cares have or had...

The resistor is under the hood behind the rear battery.

Last I looked Trucklite is all imported lighting. It works.

The blower motor and resister are going bad. They are also know for having a loose connection at the switch for the blower and melting the switch and pigtail. But the sequel is the blower motor bearing going out. Could have a rats nest in the heater box.

Organizing and sorting out my stash. Came across some rare CUCV items. Arctic grille and tailgate cover. OEM items from a huge attic kit that was on an M1009 I bought years ago. Everything else was pretty much trashed. Oil pan and transmission pan were rusted thru. The roof cover was so rotten...

I brought this thread back up because i received an Email about the M1009 to mini pick-up conversion. This was my Mule and I used it many years. I hope it is still on the road and making someone happy. I hope you find the idea of the rear cargo area interesting, and it helps you achieve similar...

On 40-year-old vehicles it would be a great idea to remove the windshield and windshield seal and take a close look at the pinch weld. These pictures were taken 9 years ago from an M1009 I worked on. CUCV head gasket / head/ or change engine survey | Page 5 | SteelSoldiers Rust NEVER sleeps...

And on the tank straps I use a piece of seat belt. Seat belts are tough and being they are nylon they don't stay wet long. I had a whole roll off seat belt material and used it to pull engines from vehicles. I left it attached to the engines and the next guy that had to handle the engine used...

New truck that was run in 4Hi on the highway. I stole this picture, but it is the same picture that I use as a reminder to disengage 4WD when the low traction condition is over.

Take the bed off. Very easy with a jack and wood blocks if you have nothing else.

I do both sides. Like mentioned clean the surfaces very good and dry them. Don”t over tighten the bolts and hold the studs when you tighten the top nuts. Good Luck.

Call me an idiot or what ever you like, I have always used Felpro gaskets and Permatex The Right Stuff . In my opinion the valve covers are scrap and are only good one time with sealer alone. After that I use gaskets and sealer. Do as you wish I am not a mechanic and only do this as a hobby. I...

I would definitely be checking the grounds. I drove these trucks for years on stock halogen headlamps and never had an issue with brightness. I have used the Truck lite H4 housings Good. I used the Truck lite H4 housings with HID conversions Better and then finally the Truck lite LED headlamps...

I may be a hard labor guy. In the end you would be better off removing the cargo bed to better access that fuel tank and the connections. But do as you wish. I would take full advantage of this situation and go wild doing other needed repairs and restoration work. If it is not your daily driver...

I remember I removed the front and rear bumpers and painted them with 383 CARC green. This was a New Mexico NG M1009.

I was cleaning up my office and came across this picture on the M1009. This is Fall 1999 and my son and I went camping in the mountains for a week we lived in a tent and lived off the land. I bought the M1009 in 1996 with 3200 miles on it and drove it everywhere. When I bought it, I had a 1986...

The Wild Weasel is in hibernation in sunny Pennsylvania.

I am looking for 2 bed sides for an M1028. 8ft bed sides. Anyone know who sells decent aftermarket? Lik a fool I sold all the GM ones I had. Oh well.