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I believe they only get a reading off one leg, that is true with a lot of generators.

If the trailer is heavy enough to need trailer brakes, you need a class 3 or 4 hitch, class 5 is a new one to me, but I tow skidsteers and the like with the one I linked above. I believe the thing you have to get out of the way is the original pintle hitch bracing, as swinters posted above...

I recall I might have had to trim a tab off a bumper support for bolt clearance or something, it was just a bit, and sawzall did it, and had to drill 4 of the 6 holes, but other than that, it fit right in.

Better off with a class 4 if you want to tow anything. https://trailerparts.com/vehicle-hitch-finder/draw-tite-hitch-41001-class-iii-iv-receiver.html

Well, the bulbs are pretty easy to check and replace. If it makes you feel any better, the alt in my '83 Mercedes 300D diesel is exited the same way, never had a fail. I agree the printed instrument cluster array is not the best, but the usually works OK until a mouse craps on it, or someone...

I had a 003 like this. Turned out the brand new AC recconection(I believe S-6) switch was wired wrong at the repair depot. I ran out of patience after about 10 hours of trying to sort it out and reading the reconnection switch diagrams in the TM, I ended up swapping out the recconection box...

I bought a 60 gallon transfer tank & pump and put in the back of one of my M-1008s, one of the best purchases I ever made, no more plastic cans, except for the darn small engines & 2 cycle. I got a very nice one from Northern Tool that has a concealed pump and a nice tool box above the tank for...

If the houses in neighborhood are not dense front to back, maybe a down-turned pipe and a window fan running off convenience outlet might lessen the fumes that get into house. I prefer a turn down on my 802 over an exhaust flap, as it is less prone to rattle and still keeps melting snow out. I...

One would only use 3 lugs for each feed of 120V 1 phase. L1 or L2 hot, L0 Neutral, and the ground lug on the frame. If it is a 120/240 hook up, L1 & L2 are the hot leads, L0 the neutral, and ground to the lug on lower frame. If it is a 16D, it probably is set up for 120/240, but some 016s...

I'll second this. My company mows around 100 lawns with 23HP Scag V rides. We never bag, & use mulching blades, which get sharpened every week. Every now and then a prospective customer balks when I tell them we do not catch & bag. Let them hire someone else, my crew makes me much more money...

One good thing about former fire service trucks is they are often stored inside and taken good care of. I have bought a couple from gsa and govdeals. They are often cleaner, less rusty and with similar mileage to the ones that have been sitting on a back lot on a military site for a few years...

14K seems a little steep, but compared to what comparable truck near your location? These are great basic, local work trucks, durable and easy to work on. Remember they do not really like to go much over 55-60 MPH. If it runs great, and you like it, it is not a bad buy, as others have noted.

I don't think there is anything wrong with these transmissions, its just that the torque curve on the 6.2 is too narrow for the gaps between gears with a high ratio rear end, and not enough torque to cruise on highway. The torque converter on the 700r4 fills in the gaps some, and a blazer is...

I have one in a factory 1982 C-20 with a 6.2. It is cast iron, with the factory supplier Hurst shifer, the build code on mine is MM7. The truck is geared pretty high, not sure if it is 3:73 or 4:10. I do not think it is a very good match for the 6.2. On the freeway it can/could get up toward...

Your ignition switch could be stuck or jammed on. It is located down on the steering column, and actuated by a metal rod when you turn the key. Check to see if the rod is moving freely and switch turns on & off. You could have fried a fuesable link or two also, but would check that switch...

Check all of the above, also toe in adjustment of wheel alignment will affect tracking.

Not sure if this is the right forum for this, but here is a interesting link about armored John Deere prototypes a member of Smokstak forum shared today. https://youtu.be/Wuz96-qkae4

I figured they just never got around to un restricting them, as there were relatively few 1031s made. I don't see any reference to the radio equipment in them. But the commercial manuals for the governor, its control and the PTO do cover most of the needed info.

Sometimes they get so rusted, parting out is logical. Another choice is the old cab swap. Any chevy of that body style being a fairly easy match, including cabs from heavier series trucks, which are often less rusted than pickups. Then you start thinking... ''too bad I have to run this...

Rapco parts sells rattle cans and gallons in CARC substitutes, as well as other MV colors. http://www.rapcoparts.com/