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Wiper motor is on same circuit as fuel heater in stock Stanodyne fuel filter base. May not be the problem, but something to check (amps draw on fuel heater circuit) this did cause a problem on one of my 1008s. Also look for melted the wiper wires in harness, near the fire wall, a shorted...

Sounds like I may have ended up with some better trucks to start with, my luck, or where & when I bought them. Since CARC is so hard to sand as you say, or at least it cloggs the paper fast, is why I am a proponent of hitting it with a professional grade primer sealer. Not that it really...

I agree that to do a professional, automotive grade paint job on a CARC painted CUCV would cost thousands. However, I am not sure why most folks insist the CARC must be sanded off. Perhaps the ones that were quickly painted tan before going to Kuwait, and for sure the ones where the woodland...

An in between route I do these days is a primer sealer after sanding off any 3 D paint. If it was not painted with a broom by some NG unit, you may not need to sand at all. The CARC absorbs the primer sealer very well and there is good adhesion. After the primer-sealer (ask for the...

If your lucky, some air in the system is making it rev a little. Might be time to tighten or replace belts anyway. Tighten any loose belts and start and let run. If it evens out after a while, your good to go. Try to remember not to fun out of fuel, it reflects poor planing and will leave...

Delco SI 27, isolated ground. 100 Amp. Your alternators should be of same output, so the 78 amp is not so good. Auto parts chain stores are not a good place to get info for the electrical parts of the CUCV. They usually have no clue. You could try 'rebuilding' the alt, parts kits are...

If you actually need a generator, and are not collecting vintage military gear for it's own sake, then you should not put much into the 018. I have one out back I bought cheep too. They use a lot of fuel, make too much noise, and have been known to have "end of use" failures in the gen head...

Is that a cab & chassis rear on your 1031 in avatar?

Probably one in most areas, here is the one local to me, :http://www.allcapespringco.net/

Any spring shop can make those up for you. Also they can sell you helper springs, bumpers, hardware etc.

Have sprayed a lot of Rapco, mainly on shipping containers though. 2 gallons should be more than enough, 1 gallon is probably not enough, if your going to paint inside of bed and all. With the Rapco, I use a cheep 2 quart HVLP (the kind with a separate tank & hoses). Be sure to mix and filter...

The main place to check for cracks is where the steering box mounts to frame. The best way to spot it is to have someone turn the steering wheel while your looking at the box, otherwise can be easy to miss.

Also, with a the recent work, make sure everything is torqued tight enough, spring u bolts, etc. Steering box mounting bolts especially have a way of backing off if not tight enough.

Usually, "automatic lane change" feature is worn ball joints, improper toe in adjustment, in addition to tie rod ends. Sounds like most of that is new, assuming NOS axle had came with new ball joints. Maybe double check alignment and ball joints.

One other thing to check is the resistor for the blower motor, if it is rusted or shorted, it can cause strange symptoms on that circuit. That is in firewall behind the rear battery, just follow the wire from blower. If you have had mice in the blower motor housing, this problem is common.

The single rear axle tubes on the 14 bolt are longer than the "cab & chassis" duel. I tried to do what you are thinking about (just swapping the hubs) years ago when I made up the 1008 dump pictured earlier in this thread, found that out, haha. As Recovery 4x4 pointed out, they have the brake...

Don't know if they ever bothered to declassify the TMs. However, I think these commercial ones are OK to post on forum

I was thinking back & I believe the duel axle in my 1008 posted above actually came from a C-30, not a K-30, although they would be the same, so it would be pretty easy to find one. I do remember the one I put in had 4:10 gears and I swapped the 4:56 and the locker out of the 1008 single axle...

I'm still running the original set up in mine(Coleman), but here is a link to woodward, please post if you learn anything, the site says it has some support. If I recall, b4thunder's old posts mentioned which controller he used. http://www.woodward.com/gensetcontrollers.aspx

I have three CUCVs that are duellys. One is a 1008 I put on duel wheel rear axle, I believe a corporate 14 bolt, form a '70s K-30, and helper springs and bumpers. I left the front wheels stock. One is a 1028 that has a Dana 70 and front spacer, with duel wheel rims all around. This was...