Search results

I had the same tag on my 802, which had 10 hrs after rebuild/reset. Of course the fluids were drained. After some deliberation, I decided to put regular 15/40 in it, it runs well and fairly smoke free, so I think the rings are set.

The German, cloth coated return lines are good. Any place that sells parts for old Mercedes will have them too. For an end cap, you can take a short section of return line and use a sheet metal screw or similar to plug the open end, maybe add some gasket goop to the thread.

Following up here; I bought a bottle of Blue Devil Block and Radiator Sealer. only used half the bottle, and so far so good after 100 miles. The stuff is the color of windshield washer fluid, not full of goop or solids like some coolant system sealers...

I don't know about the smoke part, but if turn signal indicator is on when parking lights are on, it is usually the ground wire that goes into the side of plastic socket that holds the 1157 bulb for the turn indicator/parking light. Without the ground wire, the bulb scavenges electrons from...

Another thing that can cause sticky rear brakes at start of day is DOT 5 leaking out of wheel cylinders. If there is no gear oil on brake shoes, there is probably some brake fluid, which can be harder to detect. Defiantly replace the axle oil seals while you are in there in either case. As...

Old SS file photos of MEPs with ASKs. I agree though, if you have the room, and it is going to be stationalry, then a purpouse built encloser would be better in many cases.

Thanks for the reply. I have read a lot about it both ways, and agree some additive for the older stuff is good,. I used to run B-? (sticker on pump said 5-20) but the price locally got out of hand for the quantity I use. I do have a tier 4 in a 2015 mini loader with an exhaust regen system...

On the topic of fuel lubricity additives, aren't the more modern name branded (like Shell) ULSD fuels supposed to have lubricity additives? They say they do, but I have no way to test myself.

Proximity of dipstick the only reason for ice crystals to start there and not somewhere else, just speculation, it is right under that part of block. At this point going to try a block sealing product by 'blue devil', nothing to loose, it only weeps slowly, and only under pressure. I'll post...

I thought about what may have happened to motor: Coolant did not have much anti freeze, probably had some, or it was just on verge of freezing, water in block started to freeze. What is different about that cylinder? The dip stick is there wicking some heat out of block. The freeze...

Well, the the plot thickens. Everything up and running great, notice a very slow drip of coolant coming from under engine. At first it looks like it might be leaking from under new head, but I know that could not be true. Hoping it is the nearby freeze plug, but no, it is a hairline crack in...

Below threads are in "CUCV helpful threads", at top of CUCV forum on this site, might want to read them all http://www.steelsoldiers.com/showthread.php?50551-CUCV-Switches-Diodes-Relays gen 2 diode pictured photo 7...

Actually, there is a partial hole in casting, but it does not go all the way though on the new issue filter base.

Filter base pictures from my SS attachment file. There is no hole in the one with red pencil. The updated version. Or if you have old one, remove sensor and plug hole with sheet metal screw or bolt and a dollop of JB weld.

This does not apply if you need cans that will fit in racks for MVs. If looking for efficient mobile fuel availability, I just gave up on cans, for diesel anyway. Just got this, am going to put in a 1008. So tired of filling and hauling jugs, lower risk of contamination also.

After testing injectors,(they test good, and pretty much all the same) I have to conclude damage was caused by head gasket leaking coolant into cylinder for a long time. This truck was a garaged fire company truck, so external source of water unlikely. Something to keep in mind if you have to...

Thanks, I'll check out the injector, I have some new nozzles and a tester. Top of piston has no impact marks. When they suck a glow plug, there is a pattern of the plug hitting top as it disintegrates, and the piston and wrist pin need to be replaced, as there is usually knock. I see what...

A lot of threads about 6.2 heads lately, thought I'd add one. Am working on another low mileage M-1008, when I got it from GSA, it had what I thought was a bad lifter. After taking valve cover off and compression test, it turns out to be exhaust valve. 400 or better PSI three cylinders on that...

I have a MIG and used to use it a lot more, but as noted above, the blind sides of welds can rust out fast. Lately I have been using 3M body panel adhesive and rivets to do both structural and non structural rust repairs. The Lord brand may be just as good, have not tried it. The Sem brand...

If it was a minor reduction, the effort would not be worth it. This unit is as quiet as my 802. Also agree extra muffler not worth it without the ASK, as the engine noise big factor. I did external muffler tests on 002s with and without ASK, back when I was buying these things at auction...