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To clarify, the muffler pictured in my post above does not put significant restriction on unit. It is designed for a much larger motor. In fact, I tested, and there is no RPM difference under load with or without auxiliary muffler at set frequency.. This muffler is from a 6.2 CUCV, so it runs...

Here is a civilian LP manual. It applies to other variants of engine also, so not as specific as TMs. Just to clarify, manual is not 802 specific, that is just the way it is labeled for my file.

Dragging this picture up again, if you do it right, 002 with auxiliary muffler and ASK is about as quiet as an 802.

Plastic straw with finger over one end?

It seems to release better if you finesse it some, pressing the button when switch in normal open position, not yanking hard. If something is jammed, you can cut the knob off. It is the same for of years of chevy vehicles.

There is also the gen 2 diode in dash harness, over the heater control, as per Warthog's CUCV diodes and relays sticky, picture #7. While I have never to replace, from the sound of the abuse, that could be bad also.

On a side note, I would suggest you do not re use the bolts pictured in 3rd picture on original post. One is not even a starter bolt, no knurled shoulder. GM part or AC part number 15544950 is what you want. I usually use new bolts whenever I have to replace starter, as they can get bent, and...

Here is a link Guy provided earlier this year. I bought a few used plugs from the OP in the Lister forum for low $. Maybe he still has some. http://listerengine.com/smf/index.php?topic=7776.0

Looks like a little extra casting around the push rod opening. I don't see any problems pictured, or pictures of valve guides.

Nothing wrong with electrical, all original, no grinding. Starter drive runs out and clicks. The couple of times it did not engage, even a slave jump off another 24V CUCV with Hawkers did not help. There may be a slight worn spot on flex plate, but I doubt it, knowing the history of truck...

I recently replaced a starter with one of the cheap import gear drives, and it occasionally clicks, sometimes many times before engauging. I think it is a weak solenoid and or poorly formed starter teeth. Twice this season, it would not engage at all, so there is now a breaker bar in truck...

None of these young folks know how to double clutch, whether they be meat or machine.

Or buy some NOS heads off ebay. Really depends on how you are going to use the truck, and if it is going to pay for itself. And how much funds and time you have for that one vehicle.

I'm just about done posting any thing more than quick replies. Why does log in time out? yes I know I could check the 'remember me' box, but this is not a secure site, according to firefox, so why would I do that? Did not even find restore content function this time... We are supposed to...

What happened to cause that?

They are inexpensive and they do help. Thexton tools has a lot of useful inventions like these they have bothered to produce and market.

The pressure switch is what causes the air leak failure in the original filter base. It is only used in conjunction with the STE-ICE, an obsolete diagnostic kit. The type without pressure switch, but with military compatible wire connectors is a later part upgrade. $325 eh? I think I have...

That's a colorful turn of phrase, as Gomez Adams would say. Hadn't heard that one before.

I installed one of those Powerback alarms a while ago. Works fine, use zip ties to secure sensor wire, I did it with tape the first time and it came loose enough not to work.

See if they work with soapy water on the windshield as lubricant. If they do, the wiper blades might be part of the problem. I had a set of new blades that made too much drag recently. I put some electrician's pull tape lube on windshield and that helped break them in.