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I would initiate a claim immediately. Before attempting any repairs. See what they say.

You can cheat and put a big diode between the crank and run leads. So when you are cranking you have voltage at the run position but not vice versa. Just make sure you put the diode the right way.

You need to have 24v at the run position when cranking or the fuel solenoid will not be powered. And the engine will not start. A lot of the cheap start switches don’t leave power to run when cranking.

You will want to solder short wires with spade connectors on the ends to the switch terminals and insulate everything.

He can connect to the engine. Same data bus on the c7 trucks.

Borrow one somewhere see if it works.

If you look at the mounting plate style of the m939 abs air dryers. And the mounting bracket that comes with that style air dryer, with band clamp and bolt. Which is the previous generation to the mrap pur-est dryer. The haldex universal bracket is designed to mount up to the m939 style mounting...

Nothing different but higher voltage. You can use a power converter to get 12 volt from a 24 volt system if you want to run 12 volt accessories.

The system won’t start till around 115 psi. Shouldn’t error for a certain time period from initial start. It knows to give time for the pressure to come up. You should still be able to communicate with it. Could be a bad ecu.

Now that I think about it. I think it’s the bed mounting that gets in the way. So if you have a tractor no bed so nothing on the frame rail there.

On a 6x6 you can usually get 4 bolts no notch. 4x4 3 bolts and the notch. Could vary between trucks though. Just what I have encountered in the past.

Still not enough pressure.

I think that truck is alot newer than the data plate states. That is not the correct data plate for that truck.

If the gages are correct, 95 psi is not enough to activate the ctis initial self check.

The button triggers a Bosch style relay in the panel. Few ma at best.

That switch will work fine.

Low current. I believe it’s 24 volt. You can replace with most simple keyed momentary switches for security purposes.

Adjust the air governor down to around 125 psi. If the pressure relief valve on the lower side of the air dryer keeps popping off then you are over pressure. The more you rev the engine the more the compressor makes pressure. I think the safety is set to around 160psi. If that wasnt there you...

I think you are over pressure on your air system. That may explain your other air issues. You can pull one of the tank drain cocks off and screw in a pressure gage see what’s going on.

Is the air dryer dumping out of the bottom expello valve or out of the pressure relief? Maybe you have an over pressure situation.