Search results

I think it would be fine on the truck. Those boxes are older and may need some refurbishment to be waterproof.

I thought it was .0015 allowed play. The local units here cut that in half. And if you do chuck a driveshaft and it shatters your transfer case, it usually causes hairline cracks in the transmission casing also.

Anyone have the yard address and phone number?

if you want to do it and have the money to spend then do it. Personally I think it's a lot of money to spend for little improvement. Stock form parts are available. On the road it may be harder to get parts for a one off fancy suspension. I think 4 great shocks would make a big difference. The...

No weight in either cargo truck though. Changes everything.

Loaded to that weight it should ride as good as a cargo truck can. I don't see how an independent suspension would help with ride comfort. Upgrade the shocks and leave the rest alone. No matter what you do, when driving off road it's gonna be a bumpy ride.

The truck is made to carry heavy cargo. The box you put on probably weighs less than the bed that was originally there. Some good shocks and remove a spring leaf on each side might help. And it would be cheap to do.

If its blowing the fuse then chances are a component (transistor, diode) is shorted. Use a multimeter and start where the power connection terminal is and work your way along. Alot of modules will have some sort of protection like a diode across the power inputs to protect against reverse...

You can take the regulator off and see the components. I have not seen the 15k 60hz regulators for sale. I have a 400hz one and I have heard a component or two can be replaced and it could be used in a 60hz generator but have not done it myself.

They cost me big bucks. Should have them back here in a few weeks.

Plastic ones are first gen they are junk. Fiberglass ones are good and they are repairable by most body shops. Metal ones are the a1 style.

I won a bunch of the original metal A1 grilles. Will be a few weeks before I have them back here though.

Outermost terminals are negative. 12v is connected to the positive on the first batt which is also connected to the negative of the second battery. So you have the 12v from the first battery and then 24v from the two batts in series.

Front and rear pumpkins are identical. If it fits in the rear then it fits the front. At least on the military trucks. I don't have any experience with the Brazos.

Not much to hunt for. If you have the insulation over your intercooler piping on top of the valve cover you may have to move it a bit. Usually the engine serial sticker can be seen between the two pipes though.

It's usually on a separate label next to the one you have pictured. Sometimes when the military does their internal remains on these they remove the original stickers. If the original one isn't there sometimes you can find something on the front or rear of the block.

I think its partially due to age and use.

Some trucks spool right up and some seem to have more lag. The trucks that have reman or newer engines have a noticeably faster spool.

Marine is usually cold water cooled you can really push them in that situation. Unless you are really working your lmtv it dosnt need more power than the cat dealer can safely eek out of it. You increase the probability of something breaking. I have seen a lot of driveshaft and related...

I have those. What year is the truck? 94-97 use one can and 98 up a different one.