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Have not seen that bracket before. It may be for an aftermarket AC. It should not be hard to buy the alternator and mounts to convert back to 2 alternators. Truck should not be hard to start though, even if it was (properly)converted to 12v, 1 alternator system. You should probably be a...
I don't know how involved you want to get beyond simple start up. If you were making training film, you might mention ground rod, start w circuit breaker off. I wonder if anyone has ever got one of these from GL that actually worked without some repair of switches or other adjustment.
Looks like they were pulled. Was wondering if this thread was even 'legal' around here before that. They were tagged 1800 RPM, and as was mentioned earlyer, seemed to be assoiated with a light tower set up. I suppose they could be 400Hz if for lighting only, would suspect 60hz, but..Another...
What Wayne says is true. I just parted out a 1983 chevy K-10 with a 208. The spacers were above the frame. I unbolted them rather than cutting cause they guy who bought the transfer case and transmission needed the cross member. I was thinking, 'I wonder why these spacers are here' each time...
Either way should work if you clean it up well first, assuming rest of radiator is sound. The JB weld is a little more forgiving if you are not experienced at soldering.
Depends a lot on interpretation of '95%' body, rust wise. If you want to plow it might be fair. If you want a nice CUCV to fix up, you should probably not get one that has been plowed a lot.
I may be missing the point of original post, but if you just want a moderate amount of 12 volt off 24 volt series system, can't you tap off the back of the first battery, as is done in CUCVs for the 12v part of the system? (except 1010)
Do you need a vehicle for daily use right now or is this a project for learning purposes? There have been a lot of threads about this sort of thing. Most 25 year old vehicles will have issues, and the CUCVs have a few extra due to electrical system. Try to use common sense.
Have always used copper based anti-seize (Permatex 31163 is the part number for 1 pound container w brush) on most things that does not call for thread lock. Not that the aluminum stuff is bad. The copper is better but costs more. Using anti-seize makes sence when you take it apart a few...
I got the control box more or less finished. I made things difficult for myself, but learned a lot in the process. Decided to go with the MEP-018 panel gauges and controls, even though some digital instrumentation would have been easier and more practical.
If I were to do this again, I...
Probably be ok if filtered and blended well with oil. Old varnish gasoline can do a lot of damage, causing stuck valve train parts and bent push rods. In my experience anyway.
Could be a seal as stated above or just about any gasket in upper engine. As mentioned, valve cover gasket is a good start, but could in theory be any upper or intermediate gasket from oil chamber to outside of engine of engine (lower gasket would leak all the time). Ip gasket could do it too...
I tried stick welding with an 002 and a Lincon AC buzz box. Could not get get a good arc with 1/8 6011, not enough juice & I could tell I was loading it too hard. Did not stay at it long enough to trip breaker, as I could tell it was not working. Would probably work with thinner rod or an 003.
My first 1008's oil pan was rusted though, and it was hard to tell, as it only weeped a bit. Cleaned up and fixed with JB Weld. As others have stated, it is also easy to mistake fuel leak washing down a dirty motor for an oil leak, besides pumps, fuel return lines are likely suspects.
No, "has five or more wheels on ground." Anything over 6,000 gvw is commercial in MA with ecxeption of rvs, and I think there is a provision for pickups that are not in commerce, up to 10,000 gvw. After 10k gvw you are into commercial vehicle definition by federal standards as well. Don't...