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Use a Klein solenoid voltage tester for basic wiring in shop and generator terminal lugs (in 120/240 mode). So the light, like the solenoid tester, uses some current that the digital meter does not? So am less likely to get a misleading voltage reading? Just trying to learn.
To clarify...
I remember it was discussed in a post a while ago that some of the 16b s or 701s were modified for 120/240 already. It is my understanding that if you connect voltage tester to L0 and L1 and get 120v and l0 and l2 and get 120v, then you have a neutral. Just checking that this is correct.
As per the diagram Keith J posted in post 10, the PTO indicator switch is closed to ground. Should be pretty easy to test that. (If you ground the switch terminal , the light should be on)
When screening GL units, watch out for missing paint (ie rust patches) on the gen heads of otherwise well painted units. Could mean there is a fried winding. Also, try not to buy a 400hz unit if that is not your intention.
The one I have is whitish, but has a spade connector instead of the pin on yours. It also looks like it was recently replaced. Both the ones I bought (sold one to a friend) in 2010 had had repairs to PTO unit, with some new parts and lots of RTV blue.
If the cam broke, and it is an interference engine, I would consider re powering the genset. Who knows what else is wrong. There are a bunch of MEP-003 engines around, including at least 2 sellers with new or rebuilt in SS classified. Realize this doesn't help if you power is down.
The only time I bent push rods when engine was running was when I tried to burn though some very old fuel in a utility tractor. The varnish gummed up the valve guides. I got away with freeing up valve stems and replacing push rods. Were you using good diesel? Any chance it was over heating...
If you have the windshield out, you have a chance to clean and paint the 'pinch weld'. Any irregularities under where the gasket sits should be fixed. Some of these came pretty uneven from factory. It is often a place were rust starts in the roof. Suggest using a product like Chassis Saver...
There is a windshield tool that looks between an ice pick and a cork screw that you could run under the rubber seal inside & out. But at this point, perhaps you should try an auto glass place. They will take old one out and probably re use gasket I used to do my own windshields and probably...
If you have even one glow plug working, you can do damage with either. Anyone who does not understand the system well enough to jump the red wire down to the orange ones on the glow plug solenoid probably does not know enough to make sure glow plug system is disabled.
Have to admit I have had trucks with scketchy multi piece rims, including true split rims with center band on a 1965 C-60. I made this rig up when I had to deal with split rims. Has a locking chuck. When I had to inflate a tire on a suspect rim I would put air hose between chuck and...
Did you clean out fuel system and change filters.. ect? Could be fuel system is gummed up. Happens a lot with these. Suggest you check out the WIKI. It may be you can clean out fuel system, unstick IP plunger and be fine.
The TH700 is not as durable as the TH400. If you have a 1009 as a car, or are installing a hardened up TH700, it should work out fine. If you throw in a junkyard or cheep rebuild TH 700 in a truck you intend to use, it can be a week link.
The TH 700 lasts better if you keep it out of...
A friend of mine painted his Mercedes 300TD with grey Rustolium with roller. It came out suprisengly good. I don't have any pictures. He looked up how to do it somewhere on internet.