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If you unplug warm up circuit from the sensor, or the advance solenoid and the IP, it will be disabled. If you actually have to wait 10 minutes before kickdown in your location then your thermostat is probably stuck open.

One of those 12 / 24 v commercial grade freezer/ fridge units to freeze the beer and a 5.9 Cummins and a 6 gear manual transmission.

They are not the same. The 1009/1008 ect water pump pulley has front two shivs larger diameter. The 1010 pulley has the front shiv larger and the back two the same diameter. Will not work with stock 1009 24 volt 2 alt set up.

If u joint is fine and you did not get any debris in caps, you do not necessarily need to replace. While there is no grease fitting on most original u joints, they were probably made in USA or Canada with pretty good standards. If you carefully take an end cap off, and there are no grooves in...

The trays are pretty common. The light looks like a one off.

If you still have not gotten the drive shaft free from yoke, just use a large screwdriver or small bar and gently pry u joint forward. Spray some CRC or Liquid wrench type product if it is rusty. You may need some carefully applied brute force at some point doing this job, but not yet.

You would have to open the hood to check junction block mentioned above.

The failed belt should not affect starting. I would suspect your IP failed because it was not designed to run waste oil. Just a guess.

Check to see that you have voltage to and from junction block (on drivers side firewall by glow plug relay). Sounds like your 12v system gone. Check fuseable links.

The CRC product works well. I also sometimes use either starting fluid as parts cleaner.

The stock lift pump is mechanical. The IP requires 12 v to operate. You may have fried fuseable link. Also check the fuses and what the heck, maybe check your batteries too.

I usually wait until the kickdown to go out on the highway. Sounds hard on the rings to me when accelerating with timing advanced.

Then my stock ones will be rarer. (: When the MBs and M37s were sold off, they were mostly worn and rusted out by people who used them. Glad some were saved as original. The same will be true for most CUCVs. I actually think CUCVs are very cool, and to me they look best original.

It is your truck, do what you think is cool and fun. It is not like CUCVs are that rare or special. That said, here are some observations and opinions since you asked: Raising the body off the truck only increases ground clearance if you increase tire diameter. The axles and differentials...

The high idle solenoid plunger is probably sticking. Should be simple to check if it is mechanical binding or still getting power when it shouldn't.

Welcome to the site. You can learn a lot about what it will take to run and maintain these older vehicles.

I would guess that the problem is in the alternator.

Have many 6.2s, they all have their own sound. It could be nothing. Another thing makes a 6.2 sound off is if a glow plug tip got ingested at some point. This may progress from mild engine rap to wrist pin failure. If you suspect this, taking the head off on suspect side would reveal the...

Most of the time, the gen 1 light coming on with fan motor is a failing alternator diode. It may charge, but not at 14+volts and not at lower RPMs. Rebuilding or replacing the alternator usually cures it. The fan motor resistor was a problem I had once.

Would guess that the diodes or rectifier in gen 1 are on the way out. You could have bulbs out as well. One other possibility is that the heater motor resistor (mounted on firewall with 2 screws behind back battery) is shorted or rusted to ground.