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I was successful at getting the windshield out in one piece and getting the roof cut off the M1009. I have a need for the rear roof flange. A customer called for it. I was surprised that it looked as good as it did. The engine short block is still in the frame in it's factory setting. SCRAP. The...

Eve Of Destruction I am going out to do some destruction of CUCV's that in behind my barn. Sad but true. Somethings got to give. I will post pictures. Fair Warning it may be painful to see what is happening to the old iron. Think of it this way it makes other even more rare. It really cleans up...

Yes this is the clutch assembly that goes on the driver/crank assembly. Top of picture is the clutch then the pawl, the E clip and the spring. The driver and window crank will be part of this also along with a lock cylinder. These can be assembled easily and operate the regulator driver you have...

Show the hand crank and what is different. The picture you show is the same as the stock regulator. The clutch fits into the wings and cranks the window regulator up and down. I would try and help but don't know what you are referring to as being different. Different how?

I don't think the full cover fits. I salvaged a few from civilian clusters and cut that left half off for a reason. I believe the cluster POD holes will be recessed too deep to fit both glass and cluster. Good Luck. The real find is a civilian cluster with idiot lights. I still think one more...

I looked again. It looks factory to me. Looks like that picture was taken in the cab. I have a scrap harness I can look at. Maybe this evening if the heat wave gets under control. Last night the barn was over 100*F. Let me look. Please tell what area of the truck that picture was taken.

To me the cluster looks fine. It appears to have 1 broken tab on the left side. Common problem. Make a tab of light metal. I have used a flatted C clip or a conduit clamp flattened. The shift indicator is available from LMC. You can make a simple cable guide from a reversed T nut. Grease the T...

On the proportioning valve you are missing a connection/pigtail. It is a round squeeze type that connects in the white plastic part of the valve top side with short wire and the male spade end gets bolted to the frame on the drivers side. You are missing that part. No loss. That cable you have...

I have worked at a truck body manufacturing plant for over 30 years. We have built 10's of thousands of fleet trucks with liftgates and tow hitches. Some even tow from the lift gate in the folded position. I myself welded hitches on truck frames for Ryder, Penske. Budget and all major rental...

You need to pick up a National 9449 output seal for the transfer case. Change it while you have it out. Standard ATF is all I ever buy. I would also pick up a 5 gallon pail of ATF. That is less expensive that way. You will need a good bit to refill the transmission and transfer case. Always...

I am not sure that I can send pictures in the PM. so here you go. I will include a Genuine GM transfer case to spacer adapter gasket and a dipstick tube to transmission seal cup as a gift. I hope that helps.

Multiple black wires bound together are grounds. The last picture look's fine. That orange wire goes from the throttle pedal switch above the pedal to the electric kick down switch on the left (drivers side) of the transmission. Just 1 wire. The clamp that hold the wire to the 10 o'clock bell...

WOW. You have become a great mechanic is a few weeks. I think you had it in you all along and feared failure. Fear not you are well on your way to being able to repair almost every issue that comes your way on the CUCV. I can repair most CUCV issues but let component overhauls up to...

That choice is up to you. I am not the one that owns the truck. If you don't want the pintle hook, air lift shackles and tie downs get a HD receiver and install it. Loosing the spare tire carrier from under the bed is no real loss. That is a real PITA to get in and out. Especially when you need...

I have done a few of these on the CUCV trucks. If it were me I would purchase one and fabricate what I needed to retain the brackets in stock form. Most of the ones I installed were for paying customers or on trucks that were never going to air lifted again. So to make it simple I just...

Really the spring wrap is NOT needed. That was added for protection and provide some crush resistance. Replacing the rear brake line is as simple as form to fit cut to length and re-flare. Don't forget the put the nut on the line before you flare it. And make sure it is the correct way. threads...

Just pick up a section of 3/16" nickel copper brake line and form it to fit. You will need a double flaring tool when you cut the line. Very easy fix. I know you have it in you. Good Luck. I will get back to you on the adapter.

Yes. That will do the job.

Always dis connect the ground on the welder when welding on the back end of a vehicle. I work at a truck assembly plant and seen a welder trailing a large truck several times on the lot. One time the welder was on it's side and the Argon tank was rolling behind the truck and the hose had broken...

After thinking about the leak and the crack. I gave thought to the fact that you said it was a slight leak and that would be correct for a crack like that. I also think that tells us that the transmission to transfer case seal is not leaking at this time. If it were it would be pushing oil out...