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There is a replaceable light bulb that snaps into the switch. The light up legend pops out and can be swapped between switches.

Didn't think about that with the airdrop door. I haven't had any of those trucks. In time parts will be more plentiful though. Units are having the trucks they are keeping uparmored so once that's completed they won't need as much of the soft side spare parts and the stuff will eventually make...

Fold the cab with power switch on and on the drivers frame rail inside is a big contactor relay. Jump it with a screwdriver see if the engine cranks.

Little parts like door glass and any door components like handles latches etc are hard to find and can be pricey. The window is a pain to swap the doors are riveted together.

Really hard to tell anything from the pics all I see is a hand and 2 wires. If you follow them where do they go to? If everything works on the truck I would just tape them up.

Sorry didnt see. 152 volts at the conv outlet is wrong and 45hz is way too low. You are def over voltage. My best guess would be the voltage regulator. Why dont you take a look at the control panel and the voltage adjust potentiometer and see how that and its wiring look. Will

Yes but it wont work in a LMTV it uses a 12 volt controller.

I have not tried it. But the computer should not allow a shift that could/would cause damage.

When sitting the bags come up to height and then adjust when driving. Maybe a line could be swapped somewhere.

Haven't seen this issue before. Do the cab air springs lift or stay down?

Yes. The snout over the air intake goes over the barrel. Coincidence that it fits the Lmtv intake and spare.

Cover for a howitzer.

Service brake air feeding back.

I have seen several trucks come thru the auctions with what appear to be newly replaced parts, especially dash valves, that lines are switched by accident. Either by the military or GP trying to put stuff back together for a more saleable truck.

Does it look like the original trailer valve had been recently replaced?

I wouldnt re-use the rusty one. But if you have light rust you can lightly sand the o-ring seating area and paint with rust primer. I like to use a bit of rtv around the whole area when putting it all back together. Others will tell you not to. Its more personal preference. Will

Hope you feel better.

The tank switch needs to close for the ctis to do anything. If it comes on and is deflating then the tank pressure switch is closed.

If it's deflating when it thinks it's inflating then you have an air leak on fill. Commonly a bad hub seal. Sometimes you have to turn on the light switch to get CTIS lights on the display. Even though you don't see lights on, it may be operating.

I got the local mil guys to show me how they do it. Tape measure and as even as you can get it by measuring across the front of the front tires and the back of the front tires. I would think any toe in would cause excessive tire wear especially on road.