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there is KAMO at wayndotte, ok.

what size is that hose?

You only needed to pull rad and shroud if you were going to modify or remove bracket to save you time next time so you can change seals without dropping the whole diff.

I remember something about not posting about active auctions, there is a word that i dont remember... where people dont bid on something because someone else wants it cheap....

Every truck I worked on that said SFOR on the side, if it needed a diff seal, the bracket got 'modified' so I wouldnt have to drop the diff again for a seal. I am not saying it was pretty, but it was functional. If its on the back, the diff brackets can be removed easier than the front, to get...

I think they would be close in size for 2 per can, maybe no room for the spider as the 385 are larger. I like the long can so I dont have to fold the chains on themselves to fit in the can. Here is a tire size comparison.

I use a 40mm can, holds a pair and the spiders.

There may be a post count for photo posting

here is another to read https://www.steelsoldiers.com/showthread.php?174975-MEP-804A-cranks-but-no-start-suspect-solenoid-on-side-of-injection-pump&p=2092210&highlight=#post2092210

check magnetic pickup also, read this one, post #19 has a video on a 804 'how to check mpu' https://www.steelsoldiers.com/showthread.php?178809-MEP-805B-no-power-to-the-ADC100-Electric-Actuator

Search the interweb for jdg820

You can see the electric fuel pump on the right side of the photo, and the magnetic pickup at the top

/|\ | | That tool is what you use to roll the motor without using the start in the hole on the injector pump side

Try searching buck converter

its worth 60 bucks in bandaids and busted knuckles

I would use the barring tool access to inspect the flywheel. That access port is on the injector pump side, opposite side of the starter. This is the tool that goes in that hole.

If it ends up being a regulator or bearing, read this thread. https://www.steelsoldiers.com/showthread.php?145991-60-amp-rebuild-I-got-stupid&highlight=

check the alternator bracket on the bottom adjustment slide, make sure its not broken. also verify the rear support to manifold is present. and the dirty word spacer is between the gen and mounting bracket.

come visit, bring family, have a shop with heat, tools, cold frothy drinks, bring a camper and plug in next to ours also have a couple genny's and a 33 and 70kw load tester. And an AMi if you get things a bit too warm.