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Close all windows and vents, then open the windshield on the passenger side. The air flow will force all the radiant heat out of the gaps that it normally comes in from.
(I use the pass side only as the big bugs hurt when they hit your face at 50mph)
If memory serves, its either made of pot metal or aluminum. You might be able to braze, but ive used epoxy before and it lasted at least 3yrs.
Just my experience.
Why not invest in a touchless thermometer so you know what your dealing with. I was told as long as you can touch it w/o getting burned, you gtg. Yes it very well could be the brakes, but if you didnt change anything with them, its probably not the cause.
Well, first you need to install a pyrometer. Without knowing what your exhaust temps are, you risk melting your motors pistons or turbo blades. After that your good to add fuel, but I'd make sure your injectors are in top shape.
Menace, ive found it easier to pull the topp off the trans when dropping/raising. Make sure you shift it so the peg isnt sticking out the back first. Also its good to see others using a clutch with out springs. Big trucks dont need em!
In the past, ive hammered in a torx bit and been able to unscrew snapped off brass. Some heat from a torch cant hurt either. Recently I've been using "inside pipe wrenches" if you have the right size, they beat everything else ive used.
Sometimes ive found that the head won't come out till the arrow is lined up with the valley of the gear. Try wiggling the head so the marks are lined up a little left or right of the scored tooth. Once the head is out, you'll be able to get that peg back out.
I save my sillycone brake fluid when I bleed my brakes. It is a wonderful lube for rubber.
If you are talking about the gasket thats on the outside of the hinge out windshield, yes those SUCK! I found some sliding and the use of a 6 way painting putty knife worked best.