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I would look the cabinet over to see if there is any visible water retreat line, or rusted fasteners (or anything to indicate it might have been in a flood area). And look over any visible wire contacts for any powder corrosion showing the presence of water. I would only be suspect in the cost...

How many hours? Overall condition? Any PM paperwork available?

Is the capacitor regulated model brushed or brushless? I know the AVR ones are brushless, but I thought I had read somewhere in the past that the capacitor units weren't brushless (which would be inherently dirtier power).

Mine was too, rubbing against the block near one of the unused rear mounting feet. Was arcing against it for who knows how long.... Glad I found it!

Hardware cloth is just as good to cover that giant hole, thats what I do to every machine. Self tapping sheet metal screws work wonders. Its a main egress point for water (they are designed to be forded on trailers), but also an air entry point for cooling the set. Thats why I would leave it...

You will also want to do the S1 start switch with the same effort. Also there is a little jumper cable between 1 and 7 positions on the start switch. It appears its in place, but its got a directional component soldered into it. Wouldnt hurt to share some photos of what you have, to confirm its...

No thats absolutely the start of a nest. You are lucky thats where it ended. Not all machines have the RTV sealant at the top. You will want to properly rodent proof the set once its out of your bed and into its final resting place. Its been covered in the forums, a bit of searching will yield...

I read it as Denison! Now I feel stupid :poop:

Its not common, but its not uncommon. Even if one was stuck, it should run on the other cylinders (and you would be aware that its not running right). Going through the TM steps first is your best bet.

My oldest splits time between MA and Sherman, stones throw from you.

As part of your baseline on this, I would consider investing in a bottle of two of Deoxit D5 contact cleaner. Before you go too far into things, corrosion is a known problem in these sets (because they have been used in all conditions across the world, and the newest one is 13 years old now). I...

The easy shortcut to life with these is knowing the right book, at the right time TMs ending -10 are Operating Instructions TMs ending -24 are Technical Troubleshooting TMs ending -24P are Exploded Parts Diagrams There are manuals for the complete machine, and manuals for the engine alone.

I think there are plenty of steps before higher maintenance level. The right book will work wonders. Like this section from the -24 that can be found in the directory peapvp linked to: Once you know where to look, these things become a whole lot less mysterious. :)

Have you confirmed the fuel stop solenoid is retracting when the unit is cranking? Have you done any filter service on this yet?

You turn it over by the S1 switch up near the gauges, or by the switch inside the engine bay?

The small central recess holds the shaft in place. Reassemble and with the spring in place, you compress and slide the shaft end into the central cup of that bottom 'washer'. So the spring gets compressed at a slight angle to have the ability to push it over at compressed position. The tension...

That unit will read higher than stock, but understand that the gauge has nothing to do with the safety overtemp circuit... should be reading 205-210 from memory with this alternate gauge. Here is the testing TMs on the gauge.

Whats the model number of the gauge you put in? Its more likely that the resistance figures of the gauge, arent exactly matched to the sender... so its not going to read right.

You should also check the fuel return line, you might have a leak anywhere in that line, and its dripping down to the skid level where the return enters a poly tube and goes back to the fuel tank. I would replace every inch of the return with Gates safety stripe if it were me.

In addition to above, check for very small spray leaks/weeping out of the hose that connects the water seperator base, to the inline fuel filter. Its an often overlooked part. Its a cheap part to have on the shelf too, should it ever go on you...