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And they need to be positioned not only in that notch, but also the top part rotated as close to the push rod tube as possible upon reinstallation. That top rotation allows for the pump to be 'clocked' to allow the full range of governor arm movement. If they are not set evenly, you can see poor...

Yes, bingo. They look like this: See that downward metal pin? That locks into (4) notches on the governor armature. When they move to the left, it restricts fuel completely... far right, full volume. This is what the armature looks like on the inside. See how if they aren't nested into...

You will need to pull the metering pumps (or at least one of them) and see if they are lined up with the slots in the internal armature that opens and closes the fuel to them. I would suspect that if you cannot fully close that arm, that one or more are not properly lined up and its stopping the...

The fact that your dead crank switch isn't doing what its supposed to, is a red flag.

If you jump the starter it will spin, but that doesn't open the fuel shutoff solenoid, or any of the other startup functionality... it just spins the engine over. Those TM steps are listed in a particular order, for a particular reason. I would go through them one by one and confirm before...

The dead crank has nothing to do with the S1, so I think this warrants further evaluation. Perhaps your batteries have surface voltage, but fail under load. I would yank them out and have an auto parts store load test them. Your alternator might not be producing sufficient voltage to charge them...

Does it crank from the dead crank switch? Whats your battery voltage at now?

Flywheels sold. Other items available. The rest listed still available.

Working on a resupply. You can be added to the wait list.

The OEM fuel gauge is a common failure point. The senders fail as well, but in my testing its been the gauge way more often. Up in the classifieds if your testing finds you need to replace one...

Testing instructions are available in the -24 manual for the machine. Do you have the different manuals downloaded for this unit yet?

https://surplus.saintois.com/en/mep-802a/1032-gasket-88-20286.html https://www.ebay.com/itm/325833531968 https://greenmountaingenerators.com/product/mep802a-mep803a-and-others-gasket-88-20286-nsn-5330-01-366-2836/

https://store.reliableindustries.com/engine-parts/510-0112-bearing-ball/

Don't forget good grounding, even when you 'only need a little power'

That is the block coolant drain. If you leave it open all the coolant will drain out of the block and the radiator to that static level. Make sure its closed, and that you have no drainage under use (it should have a coolant drain hose on it, that also ties into the brass drain on the bottom of...

DC alternator, yes.

I think you will be OK, you just wont use the full capable generating charge it can produce. YMMV

I got mine in NOS/uncirculated condition (never even had fuel in it). I'm around 93 hours over 5-6 years of owning this particular one.

Yes that's the quad fuse upgrade, and additional MOV protection. Two good upgrades at once.

Have you reset the circuit breaker CB1 above the inline fuse?