Search results

Available. It would also make an excellent parts backup machine, as all components are fully functional and reading correctly.

All a good start, but the hardbound book is the -10... how to use the equipment. You are going to want to download the PDFs of the other manuals. The link was provided in a previous response in this thread...

You will need to pull down all the TMs for this set, and get a good idea of what each does. There are books for the complete unit, and books on the engine alone. TMs ending in -10 are Operating Instructions TMs ending in -24 are Technical Troubleshooing TMs ending in -24P are Exploded Parts...

If it makes the OP feel better, use a fuel rated thread sealer https://www.oreillyauto.com/detail/c/permatex/permatex-thread-sealant-with-ptfe/per0/80632

No teflon. The taper will seal the threads. There are instances where tape/dope is needed in a tapered thread application, but its not this one. This is not a pressurized fitting, just static pressure from the fuel.

Its been a fair few years since I did the swap on my machine, but I think the threads were tapered, eliminating the need?

If you are concerned, many (myself included) have added a tee and a mechanical oil pressure gauge right behind the LOP switch. Its a good bit of redundancy to the factory gauge. https://www.steelsoldiers.com/threads/installed-mechanical-oil-pressure-gauge-on-mep-803a.178509/

You should note an oil pressure drop as the viscosity lessens under normal operating temperature. The LOP switch trips at 15+/-3 PSI. As this engine has a mechanical oil pump, if the engines running... the oil is flowing. If your Rotella is semi-syn, realize this engine is spec'd to run...

And I think I have a valve assembly off a skid of an 802 (think its the same as the tank drain on the 803, I will reconsult the TMs)

Ive got some grey new style expansion, PM me your address.

I think the O ring groove is key to sealing, which is why I would recommend the original 'ultimate well nut' upgrade. With the O ring in the groove, the sealing gasket is much more prone to properly sealing (where the ungrooved item, the gasket can distort for the reasons mentioned above. Plus...

So you are looking for the brass drain, or the well nut? There are a number of low end copies of the 'ultimate well nut' that are on the market, that should be considered poor replacements. As 2Pb calls out, the right one has an O ring groove in the rear face of the bung assembly, and includes a...

There should be (4) corner screws that you remove, for the cover to pop off.

One flywheel remains, and Powerplant transfer box sold. Listing updated. Other items available upon request, just ask and I will see if I have what you need.

If this were me? I would pull the temp switch like mentioned above, and completely drain the cooling system and flush with distilled water a couple of times. At the same time, I would put in a new thermostat (its real handy to refill the cooling system the majority of the way, through the...

Well if the top hose is hot, and the lower hose significantly cooler... I would stay the T stat is at least functioning (possibly not at its peak, but lets put that aside for right now). If you are getting the fault light at varying temperature levels, thats due to this puppy...

You have to put the parenthesis after the separated by a space (which is annoying, but the two characters together is auto changed to an emoji). 8) 8 )

Probably because they are 8s, and its changing it over to glasses.

Any auto parts store should carrying deoxidizing spray/ electronic contact cleaner. CRC, Permatex, Berryman, etc... all available at an O Reillys. I have just had excellent success with the Deoxit stuff (which Ive only found in stock locally ever at a Guitar Center, of all places). Glad to...