Search results

If you're talking about the valve core and not the actual stem, then there's a core removal tool for them. Available at your local truck supply store; they're just like the normal core removers...only bigger. My steel MRAP wheels didn't have valve cores in them; they connected to the CTIS and...

Awesome! I know there's a few deuce winches locally; probably some for the 5T's too. Just post up that you're looking for one (when you're ready) and I'm sure somebody local has one. -WRM

When do you think you'll be picking it up? Can't wait to see it! Winch truck? -WRM

No video from me; sledding across the desert and running into cacti is not my idea of a good time...lol. Those shenanigans took place in my youth...in IL. -WRM

I've rode on a truck hood in the snow...pulled by a horse! Rope tied to the saddlehorn...lol. -WRM

The symbol in picture #2: is that a decal or paint? I'd be interested in seeing if there's any more of it left. The majority of things I've seen in that location (especially on former military vehicles) is the civil defense logo. For the loop thing, I'm guessing that's a bubba-mod; never seen...

It's likely a civilian modification. It used coolant flow for the heat source and 12V for the fan. If memory serves, the military heater was usually on the driver's side. -WRM ETA: It looks like the M38A1 used an under-hood heater with an attached blower motor. Earlier models used an...

It's an Arvin heater; they made several different models and were a common modification to early Jeeps. Some of them sell for good money once fixed up. I've had a few different models, but always ended up selling them since they don't get used much here. -WRM

Nice to see you over here Nate! I hear 'ya on the local sale vs. decent price...it's clear that there's a few locals looking to get rich on GL buys. If you end up winning an auction and need a copilot, let me know and I'll tag along if the timing works out. -WRM

I just clicked on it? :shrugs: -WRM

Works for me; nice video! -WRM

Thanks for the help folks; I'll likely start this job tomorrow... or at least start the soaking of the tapered bushings. -WRM

That's what I was afraid of, but was hoping that the bushing would stay in there. I've never had the front knuckle apart, so I'm not sure how it all "looks" in there and what's holding everything in. I guess I'll err on the side of caution and remove the wheel & tire. -WRM

I've removed the drag link already, but I need to remove the steering arm attached to the knuckle now. -WRM

I found the section in the manual (TM 9-2320-361-34, page 10-36) that details how to remove the steering arm (from the knuckle), but it doesn't say if I need to remove the wheel and tire. Can I just remove the arm while with the truck sitting normally (on all fours)? I know that this is a...

Definitely looks like a voltage regulator -WRM

Check out this thing that just sold in my neck of the woods. Judging by the sale price, I hope the buyer has big plans for it: http://www.govliquidation.com/auction/view?auctionId=7148268&convertTo=USD -WRM

Ah, I didn't notice that. Well, technically it was "operating condition unknown." I'd still chance it for nearly $7K... -WRM

No, I made my own plates too; pics and dimensions are in my thread. -WRM

Yeah, I haven't messed with the front yet. I'll think about it when I flip the front perches around after machining them. More than likely though, I'll leave those the way they are; no sense in adding extra expense for the heck of it at this point...maybe later. -WRM