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Does anyone have any thoughts on the best way to deal with it? Can't reach in there to scrub it out but painting over it seems like a waste of time too since it'll just come back up again.

I just removed the wheels still attached to the hub/drum on my rear axle to replace the seals and the wheel cylinder. I didn't touch the adjusters when removing the wheel cylinder. My question is do I need to do the major brake adjustment if I'm replacing the cylinder and reusing the old pads...

I broke the "don't fix it if it aint broke" law and it appears to be biting me in the rear end. Tore the front axle apart to install all new seals and replace the brake cylinders and adjust brakes. the axle seals weren't leaking before. Now put it all back together and both sides are dripping...

I took my knuckles apart and evidently forgot to take pictures of a boot clamps. What's the correct position for the one piece silicone boots and the inner and outer clamps/bolts? Need to know where they're supposed to be so they don't hit the knuckles when they're all the way left/right...

There is a place around here that can rent me a 180CFM diesel air compressor for $60/day. I'm thinking about renting it for a weekend, hooking it up to a HF 110lb sandblaster, and stripping down my truck. I'd use Black Diamond media from TSC. My question is will something with that much juice...

I'm starting on the rust on my truck and to practice I'm stripping down a fender. I found a couple of rust holes. Problem is that under that hole there is another piece of metal that's not rusted through. What's the best way to deal with this type of rust? Pictures: imgur: the simple image sharer

My drivers side door lock has been sticky for a while and finally gave up last week. The handle just flops around like it's not hooked up to anything inside the door. Any ideas on what I might need to replace and which TM covers door disassembly?

I'm planning my remote res and need info on what types of hose are safe to use with BFS and pressure of 15psi (for the bleeder). I'm planning to install a ball valve so I can isolate the reservoir from the rest of the system and then plug in my pressure bleeder to pressurize. I tried posting...

I want to get the wheels off and rebuild brakes / grease everything before it gets too cold over here. I know the rear duals you can remove together and roll out of the way. On the fronts (11x20 radials) I'm thinking about using this dolly. Do you guys think it'll work ok? Mechanical Wheel...

I asked them for a price on a 24v civ alt conversion and a 12v alt addon and haven't heard back after waiting a couple of weeks. Are they still in business and just slow at replying to emails? If not is there someone else selling a similar setup?

I picked up a new front harness for my m35a2 and before I install it I'm thinking about covering it in this wire loom stuff. Flexible Nylon Wire Loom for Cables and Automotive Engines Any reasons not to use it?

So I'm still working on my deuce and it doesn't get driven much. Before I head out for a cruise around the block I like to pressure bleed the brakes and get a nice firm pedal. Then when the truck sits for a couple of weeks it feels like the pedal goes down further before I start to feel...

I had some issues with hunting idle so I decided to check the in-tank pump/hose. Pulled the pump. Replaced the hose. Cleaned the screens. Reconnected all the fittings. Drained old diesel and put in 20 gals of fresh. Also had a leaky fitting on the IP after I installed the westfolk fuel filter...

I bought the kit from westfolk on ebay. The primary and the oil filter kits worked great, but after installing the secondary kit I developed a leak. The odd part is that it appears to be leaking from the elbow fitting not the new compression fittings that came with the kit. I circled the leak...

My mirror brackets are bent and rusty so now that the truck is somewhat drivable I decided to remove them and see if I can straighten them out or replace them with emt conduit. Turns out that the door hinge bolts are completely rusted in place. I managed to break the nuts loose on the passenger...

So I finally wrapped up my clutch change adventure. Moved the truck around the yard a bit to see how the brakes and the new clutch are working. I noticed that the idle rpm is fluctuating a little bit. I'm including a link to the video of the truck running. Let me know what you think...

I'm thinking about replacing my harness, but I'm not really excited by the prospect of paying $250 for a NOS harness that's been sitting on a shelf for 10-30 years. Feels like I'd be trading in one old harness for another that's slightly less worn out. Are there any other options out there?

I want to clean out the crap on the bottom of the trans while I have the top cover off. What's safe to spray in there? I was thinking brake cleaner, but wanted to ask the experts first.

I've been unable to get the trans back on my m35a2 with the hoist method. The PTO makes it lean to the side and makes it pretty much impossible to align with the holes. Seems like a trans jack would make the reinstall much easier since you can adjust it up/down and side to side. Do you think...

I installed a new rear main and would like to check my work before I put the trans back on. If I put the flywheel back on and leave the clutch/pp off is it safe to run the truck for a few minutes to see if it leaks?