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Oh great and knowing one M101 3/4 trailer 309377 ser# G-2748-7389509 Ordnace # Dunbar-Kapple 8-53 del date. Came out of Jefferson city, Mo GSA auction. m1008 1GCGD34J5FF359535 vin NG1CLE Reg # 2320-01-123-6827 nsn 1/85 del date. This one came from Ft LWood, MO GL auction. Thanks much!

The heater ducting is 4" duct if I remember right, that you can get at Napa or a good parts store.

Find a good local co that rebuilds starters and alts. Have them go thru it, make sure you tell them its a 24v starter. It would be the cheaper route and if you have problems after the rebuild, you have someone to take it to instead of having to ship it back. Just my 5 cents.

You could rig a switch to excite the alt, thats what most do on Ford 8N's when converted to 12v with the GM alt. Bat. to switch with a inline fuse then to the alt. Or just talk dirty to your alt.

Oh great Carnac, if any are left after the other request, I'm looking for 2 of them.

Be safe, hope it has a heater in it.

The pink wire on top of the IP, with the key on, pull the pink wire off. Then do your hear a click when you push the pink wire back on? Or test to see that you have 12 volts at the pink wire. If you hear the click, then the fuel shut off is working. That would only leave the IP or try more...

Crack open an injector line at a injector in the engine block, while cranking, may take it awhile but it should get wet with fuel and see the bubbles. Crank in short burst, 10 sec then wait 50 sec and do that till you have fuel at the injector. Also did you crack the bleed screw on top of the...

Just looking to move a set of cucv troop seats from Chicago, IL to St. Louis.

What a D.A., that wasn't a have bad looking 65-69 corvair, one can only hope it wasn't a 140 or 180 hp corsa.

roflrofl

Ajmblazer is right on the money. If you don't get the backlash, preload and such set correct. Your new gears will make nice paper weights. Best bet is to swap out the axels.

Ya that was the son and I, 15 yo learning to drive. Guess I'm being paid back for all the things I did as a youth.:oops:

Put a set of cut outs on it, if you want to be able to go from normal to loud and back again. They make them nowdays with an elec switch, no need to even get out of the truck. I've had a set of cut outs on my roadrunner for years. Once every blue moon I get a wild hair and uncap them.

Yes they do. Your blackout switch on the right of the two BO switchs, pull out and move to the up pos. Then your civ light switch will work as a normal. Pulling the civ switch half way out for your running lights.

obergroppenfuher :-D

Just my 2 cents worth, but why remove the ste-ice plug? If it isn't broken don't fix it. If you don't want to look at it, why not just unbolt it from the bottom of the dash. Then wire tie it up under the dash out of sight.

All you have to do is put this :popcorn: or this nopicson every post that you read. Then you will be a 4 star General in no time.

It's the small brown wire that just pushes into the tiny stud that is by it's self. It is a factory item.

The Plastic sensor is for the water in fuel, there are a few surplus dealers that sell them. Also from time to time they are on ebay. Your fuel on the ground, Can you see it coming from the filter? Fuel will some times leak from the bottom of the IP into the valley under the intake then run...