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Negative of 2 6tl flooded lead acid - not enough CCA in -F temps to crank engine fast enough. 2 AGM would likely work just fine - or add a battery heater.

Got mine at Napa, the hose is standard 1/8 nylon "brake" line. There is a decent chance the solenoid does not function if it's had water getting in it. Mine was completely seized up, check its function by supplying 24 volts to the pins you should see the plunger move.

You wouldn't believe how many people I've run into call the eductor an inductor. Common in fire service for pulling foam concentrate into the main hose stream.

Should be able to trace the line easily if you lower your spare. I would be concerned about reservoir volume. The AOP reservoir is not that large.

The solenoids also like to seize and fail. Apply voltage to check if the plunger moves. I agree with general, keep it.

After a lot of research (Donaldson has lots of good info if you dig) I got the D120037 for my C7 and it's working well. No reading on air filter gauge.

https://shop.donaldson.com/store/en-us/product/P112611/14849 I got my through applied.com distributor for $42.

I did this with a pipe. Eliminates any chance of slipping (on that side at least).

Verified they are the same top and bottom (the control arm balljoint boots). You can order new ones from ATAP at $60.72 each - they have them in stock. You have to remove the spring, axle, drain the hub to change them out.

Changed all the diff fluids today, front one had a sliver but looks like its a piece of the NPT threads on the fill/drain. Middle may have had a tinyyyy bit of water but scoping the diff internals showed no rust. Got the new batteries and the wallet is hurting (6-700 a piece) from the AGMs but...

Less than surprised...mine from the same people leaks as well.

Newer versions of install instructions. Has some better detail - especially in diagrams of connectors and pins.

I have cruise/set/res wired correctly, and cat see cat ET registers all 3 switch positions correctly. I wired a relay to cut the cruise on circuit when hitting the brake. All that works as it should...just can't seem to adjust speed while in CC.

Another weekend out making memories! Highlight was the trout stream. Noticed cruise control doesn't let me increase or decrease speed once engaged. Normally clicking set/resume would increase and decrease speed by 1mph but this didn't work. Holding seemed to error out cruise and had to cycle...

So.... If you were missing your dash vent pieces, take a look in your vent panel. Looks like a bored Marine was pulling out 223 bullets. This was also in the air vent.

Looks like the classic YouTube drama for clicks. We've been in some high winds in a the MTV, noise is the main thing. Yeah it can rock a little bit no big deal at all.

"Whine" is not really descriptive. Air will release from the quick release valves. Yes the system can take a long time change pressure as these are high volume tires. Increasing pressure will take longer if revs are low as the compressor is spinning slower. If the light eventually goes solid...

Being that it's a unimog I wouldn't be surprised if it has one of those torsionless subframes. Post up the video and we can take a look and see if there's other information to get from it. I've not heard any issues with people with spring captive subframe mounts.

I read that I worried the same. Learn from my mistake. https://www.steelsoldiers.com/threads/dealing-with-issues-due-to-half-assed-ctis-engineering.221606/

Can you post up the OD, ID, height, coil resistance? Can probably cross reference something.