Steel Soldiers now has a few new forums, read more about it at: New Munitions Forums!
Microsoft MSN, Live, Hotmail, Outlook email users may not be receiving emails. We are working to resolve this issue. Please add support@steelsoldiers.com to your trusted contacts.
I do have to pump some as the cab lowers, else it will overflow. I stop pumping when latch is a couple inches from touching. Method has been working great for about 20 cab raises so far.
Haven't found the ability to start from 1st in the Allison DOC software. I don't really feel it's sluggish, just need the turbo to spool up then it takes off well but I don't have a lot of experience prior to eco hubs.
At 30400lbs and eco last check was 6.5 mpg at 65mph.
Agree with the exhaust...
In normal conditions it very reliably kicks on at 205. It could be a rate of rise..or trans temp..not sure and ultimatly I don't think it's very important. Maybe an MTV thing, but how much data do we really have of lmtv at 30.4k going wot up a steep hill in second?
Just sharing my anecdotal...
I have it kick on well before 205f coolant temp when pulling a steep grade in second. I don't know the exact grade but the truck with 330hp will barely accelerate under full throttle. If I go a little faster and it's in 3rd it usually doesn't kick on until 205f. Makes me think it's seeing higher...
They are ball joints, you don't burn them out.
Midwest military offers a boot kit but it's sized wrong and completly worthless.
MTP drivetrain had 115 kits left when I ordered mine. Boot size is great but the clamps were just a little small so I had to use safety wire to secure them. These...
Interesting VADS diagnostic system https://www.ebay.com/itm/256847644693?mkcid=16&mkevt=1&mkrid=711-127632-2357-0&ssspo=9z336kmkQEK&sssrc=4429486&ssuid=gREya4EHS9C&var=&widget_ver=artemis&media=COPY
Follow up on this. For removal - remove the plug, remove the snapring, use a brass punch to drive out the joint (shouldn't be super tight). For installation, tap the new balljoint in with brass hammer or similar. Grease is to be added to the boot side and the plug side. Shims are what prevents...
M1096 C7.
Under high load conditions in low gear (trans not locked?) it will switch on fans well before the 205f coolant mark. Wish we had a trans temp gauge. (yes both engine and trans fans are activated at the same time).
I am. No idea if it makes a difference. Not like there is any air flow through it without the fan so only advantage would be a little help to cool down faster when the fan kicks in.
That said, I have had the fans kick on well before 200f coolant temp, when pulling a hill in second...guessing...
Was 70f this weekend, 6x6 weighing 30400lbs, had the fan turn on twice in 2 hrs driving, and there are some steep hills here (minutes of WOT). C7 with eco hubs.
Fan turned on about 20 times the day prior for the same trip at 50f, but had the cold weather shield on.
Not sure your exact setup, but my m1096 has the cooler mounted lower with some angle steel. Used some kydex (plastic) to allow for flex and prevent metal to metal contact.
One of these helped so much, although I think mine had a chinesium spring that busted on the 4th wheel.
I'd really recommend a 3/4 impact as well. My 1/2" DeWalt broke an impact socket and struggled a bit.
Sure, ad-blocking software does a great job at blocking ads, but it also blocks useful features of our website like our supporting vendors. Their ads help keep Steel Soldiers going. Please consider disabling your ad blockers for the site. Thanks!