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you can get a factory hydrualic sm465 out of an 80's chevy truck at a junk yard, the bell housing and such is a little different than previous stuff but it all bolts right in, and nv 4500's are all hyd. so everything is simply bolt in....where's the problem?:-D

I have a few more questions, since i'm not really familiar with some of the "qualities" of these wheels. By "3" piece design do they mean that 3 sections of a wheel are welded to make this design? I also noticed on the pics that the bead locks were to far inward to reach the part of the tire...

I was thinking a couple swivel seats out of an 80's chevy van. I know some of the models were for trips and stuff and had dual swivel seats behind the captains chairs. These seats could be mounted easily to the floor and are also completely removable, just leaving the base part of the unit. If...

where did you get them?:-D

bummer, good luck with your search.:-D

dot 5 should be available at ANY automotive store and the origanol lid to the master should say dot 5 only already.:-D

good post, I wonder if any 84/86 models would also be subject because of the odd builds of the military....(everything based off of 1 model throughout the years).:-D

ya the wheels are great, to bad thier the wrong backspacing or I would try to "upgrade":-D

I also want to add that i've personally seen body mounts ripped out of the floor of the cab, so if your thinking of lifting your truck then you might think about all the work it would be to change out a cab, just to save 200 on a nice suspension kit.:-D:-D

could be batt cables, cheap insurance anyway...and get one of those wire cleaner hootices for the batts/cables while your at it, maybe even that red spray on terminal sealer for when the jobs done. I did all of it on mine and it makes all the difference.:-D

it came up for me...:-D

I'm not trying to rain on your parade.....maybe the tranny going south is an indication of 157xxx, and is just due for replacement.:-D

ok, I see what you mean. I was just trying to make sure that the bleed part was completely finished before going in a new direction....dont just start throwing parts at it and see where your at when the dust clears type thing.:-D

yellow is constant, not intended to run stereo by itself, red is full power, only when stereo is to be playing.:-D btw, wire colors make it largely self explanitory.

sorry, I may have misunderstood which line your replacing, if going to the IP it's 5/16...get something for a higher than normal pressure like fuel injection hose.:-D

you need the yellow wire from ignition to retain your stereo settings and a hot from any 12v source that is keyed. real strait forward. if you cant find a keyed 12v source than tap from anywhere and put a toggle in to cut power, the yellow ign wire will still retain your clock/presets:-D

it's 3/8, it's a good idea to take it with you so you dont have to guess length.:-D

The problem with the question your asking is that YOUR market value and mine are different ,and location, and someone actually buying it sets it's real value on the spot. figure out what you can live with money wise and add some to it, if no one buys it reduce the price gradually until it's sold...

first one: 1000obo second one:400obo just my opinion.:-D

It doesn't sound like a quart has gone through the brakes lines yet. I would plan on using a whole quart and with the engine OFF....bleed bleed bleed:-D Edit: first off I would bleed the master where the brake lines attach(the same way you do at the wheel) #2...adjust rear brakes up, they are...