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No offense taken. What I did was build up air until the pump turned off (about 120psi), then shut it down and checked the lights with the brake pedal held. After replacing the switch, performed the same exact test and they work fine.
cranetruck,
I've found that the manifold spark plug can ground just fine through the intake elbow, as I replaced mine with an off-the-shelf spark plug and plug wire.
my 2cents
I'm not too concerned about keeping the connectors as I am about the function, so I went to NAPA and got an off-the-shelf air switch, and a bushing to go from the thread on the new switch into the original elbow. Got it hooked up, and works great. The only thing left is to get a new headlight...
Is there any reason that a panhard bar can't be attached to the top of a rockwell diff? If it can, I think that would resolve the wandering axle problem pretty easily.
my 2cents
Update, Problems fixed:
1) Bad ground at blinker box mounted to driver's side wheel well
2) Short-to-ground front driver's side blinker in the harness as it turns up towards firewall. frame rail had rubbed through and caused trouble
3) confirmed that the brake switch (which seems to be air as...
Westex, I know for sure that you can run dual 11R20s on the stock A2 wheels, as that's exactly what mine has. If the stock size is 9R20 (I'm not sure, but think so), then you pick up a few mph as well.
If you're running straight diesel fuel, from what i've read on the forum you shouldn't need the flame heater at all until it gets below freezing due to the very high compression (22.5:1) of the LDT/LDS
I have no basis for comparison, but the truck I have has 11R20 Michelin XLs, dualed out back and singled up front. The perform pretty well, but I need to do something about the truck's tendency to "push" through turns.
Also, one thing I noticed about the dualed XLs in snow is that they like to...
The noise you hear is the booster pump. Here's what I did, step-by-step.
1) loosen the fuel inlet at the booster pump with the tank pump running to see if you're getting enough pressure to make a fine mist. If not, the small filter for the booster pump is probably clogged. Its to the right...
I am buying it, but I want to take it for a spin tonight and can't if the lights don't work :-)
Well, with the help of the schematic and figuring out the light switch, I got the front markers working. The stop lights are still inop, but I think i've narrowed it down to a faulty brake line...
I did search, both for "wiring diagram" and "wiring schematic" and came up empty, but thanks for posting that thread, even though the link on my end is broken.
This one works for me: http://www.steelsoldiers.com/deuce/3843-peter-bogs-cad-deuce-schematic.html
Hi all,
I am in the process of purchasing an A2 from a friend who has been storing it at my house. It runs and drives well, but the lighting system is giving me fits. Only the headlights and rear service markers work. I've checked the turn signal switch's operation, and it seems to be okay...
From what I've seen, the A3 better than the A2 when in new condition. As the saying goes though, "Parts left off don't break," and on the A3 (especially the CTIS) that seems to happen a lot. A2s also can be had for a few thousand less than the A3s.
Mine has 50/50 gas/diesel in it at the moment, and wouldn't start at all without ether unless at or near operating temp. I don't remember a plug in the heater elbow, but i don't see why that wouldn't work as long as you have a second person to do the cranking.
After fixing the intake flame heater on mine, it was able to start in under a second once i light the heater up. See my previous post about how I fixed it.
I have a similar problem that I'm working on with the A2 that a friend is storing here. I've looked for the flame heater filter online, but can't seem to find it anywhere. I've found the other filters from Desert Deuce, though. Does anyone know of a source for the FH filter?
edit to add:
I...