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Did you try these? http://www.steelsoldiers.com/cucv/54292-cucv-alternator-symptoms-diagnosis-fix.html?highlight=readings+alternator http://www.steelsoldiers.com/cucv/78070-gen-2-wire-plug-readings-help.html http://www.steelsoldiers.com/cucv/60698-more-alternator-electrical-questions.html

Frank, Welcome to the site. Go here and download the free manuals. http://www.steelsoldiers.com/cucv-tms/77609-tms-cucv.html There is a troubleshooting section that will help.

If the back battery dies suddenly (and they can) it will act like that. Load test the batteries first.

True. I was not thinking about balancing the batteries for charging purposes. :oops: This questions seems to come up regularly in the CUCV forum where the imbalance is not an issue (separate alternators). I just wanted to point out the safety aspects of using the 'second' battery.

If your equipment uses the case or frame for the ground/negative connection or has the case or frame bonded to it's negative input and is attached to the vehicle chassis then you must pull 12V from the same battery that has it's negative post connected to the vehicle chassis. If you do not do...

Doesn't the 24V come from the 24V on the fuse panel? Through the orange wire to the gen 2 lamp on the instrument panel. Through the lamp then on the brown/red wire to one of the power contacts (not coil contacts) on the gen 2 relay. Then when the key is on the gen 2 relay is energized so the...

Shouldn't that brown wire (at the relay) have 24V on it with the key on? The point is you should see 24V to ground at the gen 2 lamp. Perhaps your dash circuit board is bad?

If you make any kind of connection to a bus bar or battery be sure to include a fuse in the positive wire as close to your source of power as practical or better still do what doghead suggested as those terminals should already be fused.

The big lead/acid batteries have doubled in cost since 2004. The solar panels are coming down in cost which makes grid tie more affordable but if you want emergency power you will need batteries.

Does this help?

:grd: LED lights are nice as they keep the load down. I can't wait for the prices to come down.

Right at the relay, what voltages do you read on the brown, brown/red and pink/black wires with the key on and again with the key off? (measure terminal to ground)

If the drivers side is an isolated ground unit then yes. Isolated ground is stock so unless someone changed the drivers side unit to a civilian case ground unit you will be okay. If you are not sure use your meter to check that the ground terminal is not bonded to the case.

Bummer. The sad part is they may very well cover the cost of repairing the truck but they will never reimburse you for your time and trouble spent making things right.

From what I have seen most of the nuts are deformed thread reversible lock nuts. The manual says to replace them with new. I will match whatever is replaced. This is more money up front but the per unit price beats the heck out of home despot. Bolt Depot - Nuts and Bolts, Screws and...

Not necessarily so. The phase conductors (hot legs) must be isolated but the grounded conductor (neutral) may or may not be isolated. If you are using your generator to feed your house you can use the house neutral-ground bond but you have to remove the generator neutral-ground bond that is...

Downloading the TMs and following the troubleshooting procedure might be the quickest route to a solution. Please heed the no ether warning...... http://www.steelsoldiers.com/cucv/67012-click-click-boom.html#post802889

Tongue weight, don't exceed it.

Welcome to the site. Download the manuals and use them, they are a great resource. CUCV TMs - Steel Soldiers::Military Vehicles Supersite

Make sure the dimmer on the light switch is turned all the way up.