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Just because the plunger in the hydraulic head is going up and down doesn't mean the retainer and button didn't fall off of the bottom of the hh.

Yes.

Don't worry about your oil being black. It doesn't take long at all for diesel engine oil to change colors.

Yes. A 2 stroke detroit with just a roots blower was actually considered naturally aspirated. The turbo was a power enhancer.

Just go ahead and pull the hh. It's not that big of a deal. Chances are the button came off. Which is an irritating and common problem. It's comparatively rare for a booster pump to go bad.

First and foremost make sure all of your lug nuts are tight. I had a front tire coming loose on one of my one tons the other day. Left turns made a horrendous clunking noise. Front left tire had all 8 lug nuts coming loose. Then check the front wheel bearings and u joints inside the knuckles...

You can also search for Viton hose. It's immersion rated.

Sounds like your shoes need adjusting.

If I remember correctly white owl was just under $50 per line. Csi truck parts was in that ball park also.

Ya I'm with gimpy. If your injector lines aren't leaking then I'd leave them alone. It can become a pain to get the lines tweeked so they don't leak.

I got mine from white owl. They were new manufacture. I liked the new lines. They were very nice quality. Just some of the bends weren't perfect. They were very close though. But the tubing they were made of was very strong. I know injector lines are tough steel to begin with but I could...

Fppf total power.

If your injector lines were as rough as mine were you would understand. On a side note the injector lines I bought were made from a way tougher steel tubing than the old ones. I busted 3 really good tubing benders trying to adjust the lines. They didn't line up perfectly.

Never mind how porous bondo is. I can only speak for myself but no ridicule was intended. Just honestly hoping he isn't patching rust with bondo. It will only make it worse. Much worse.

Please tell me you aren't stuffing bondo into those rust holes.

I have a 2000 pound engine stand that I put a 6.0 powerstroke on. It weighs about as much as the cummins you are working on. All I have to say is i was pretty nervous with how much the engine would sway while I torqued bolts. I was excited to get it off of that stand.

Maybe try something that's 13/16?

Just a warning to everyone wanting all of these super slick oils....your transmission may scratch worse when you shift. The syncros need an oil that has a little resistance to it to slow the gears down so they mesh properly.

As always nice work! How's your sister?

40w non detergent oil is basically the same thing as gl-1 gear oil. They are right at about the same viscosity and they both are base stock oil. The lube order changed on the exact same transmission. If gl-1 worked for 40 years and suddenly the army changes the lube order.....well so what...