Search results

Probably the oil cooler. Swap it out. completely drain the cooling system & flush it using a box of the non-frothing dish soap. I can't think of the name of the soap - its used in dishwashers though. Put the box in the system and run it for an hour. Get it good and hot. If its not clean...

I changed mine long ago. It gives your heater a chance to re-heat warm air, instead of trying to start new, trying to warm -40 F air. I'm not sure the ram air effect is measureable anyway.

A complete re-fit of the hydrolic system. Take the master cylinder off and clean it with brake clean and rinse it with alcahol. Put a kit in it. Blow the brake lines out, re -do the brake cylinders. That is probably not what you wanted to hear, but you can't clean it any other way. Its...

The old M211 & M135 were that way. They were built so that the vent tube and the hydralic brake hoses were routed togeather along the dogbone that attached to the top of the differential housing. That way, they were protected in a little metal trough fixed to the dogbone. Also important, it...

LP fired engine tank heaters have been availiable for years. I was using them 40 years ago for remote starts. Keep in mind that when it gets cold propane ceases to vaporize at about -40F. One can overcome that by heating the propane feul tank - or - as with a 20# propane tank, just bury it...

Bump

IF you can get the drum off, I doubt that it will help much. Its been a long time since I had mine apart, but I think that you have to take the hub off. Lots of folks don't have the proper socket - use a chisel/punch/screwdriver to take the nut off and on. Often stuff gets dirty in there...

I was drooling over those. They posted pictures of them running, for the Auction. The guages & lights on, show they were in cherry condition. Glad somebody got them!

NO Way! Even if doubled! That is a long span and 750# in the middle is going to bend it. Try to shorten the length. Can you get away with 10 footers? Then you can get two out of one stick of material. Usually you can find a ditch to back into, or a bank , that lessens the hieght. By the...

A 1500 watt submersible heater in the tank will do wonders. Locate it as close to those valves, and it will work fine. Using a tarp to cover the whole thing is another trick. That with a pan full of bricketts under the trailer, is a trick we use to start equipment/cars here. Leave the hose...

It looks like he might have a new purpose.

Shuldn't be a problem. That is, if you are bringing your own stuff to do it with: spare, jack, 4-way lug wrench, etc. If they checked you on/off base, they might squawk about you coming and going, otherwise, I have found, they might even help you.

If your going to have a generator, you need a multimeter, so you can tell what is going on, with out employing the smoke test. You can set your RPM with the HZ function on your meter. If its at 55 HZ, crank up your throttle setting, and see if the HZ, on your machine, won't come up too. Then...

Welcome! Great trailer! Get the "high rise, w/pintle". That said, they all aren't the same. Check the weight rating. My riser plate has 7 holes in it with a solid 2" shaft. The pintle is made by Holland and is rated for 16,000#. The cheap pintle is cast, not forged! I broke one once...

Its the only way to go...... Keep it and buy an A2. Besides that, you need to keep your eye out for an M37. Only then will you feel whole.

It happens a bunch with trailers too! The Paper Work is just brushed aside with casual indiference. Big Headache down the road, unless it goes to the scrapper.

With that bulb in mind, I'm missing the little shield/cap, that covers that indicator bulb, on the turn switch itsely. It just snaps in place. Its not something that one can buy new, without getting the whole switch. If anybody has one sitting around in a parts truck, I would be greatly...

I have them mounted on the mirrors, and turned outwards, to give broader coverage. They are 24V utility lights, similiar to those found on heavy construction equipment. If you have a trailer on, that is important.

I use the multi-grade stuff, 75/90. because of the winter temps. Its good all year. Some consider the "EP" additives, not so good for the tranny, and they may have a point. It can cause them to kick out of gear with the helical cut gearing, so they use straight mineral oil. I don't want to...

The problem is that you won't just want one. A super trailer.