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Welcome to the site. Search is your friend (your question has been asked and answered many times). If you have the stock 24V glow plug system and there are problems with glow plug connections or controller you can burn out new glow plugs in less than a week. You could have a fuel delivery...

Issue 1: GP cycling after start is normal, wait light coming on after start is not normal. Issue 2: If jumpering around the GP relay lets it start normally then chances are good the relay is indeed toast.

I for one want to personally thank all of the nameless, faceless federal bureaucrats who have dedicated their lives to lining their pockets er uhh saving me from myself and from a myriad of horrors I never even knew existed. I had the pleasure of working with a low level TSA bureaucrat once...

Obviously I missed it. Do you have a link? I demand a recount of the hanging chads .....

The engineers who design various systems make procedures and recommendations for a reason. Yes I follow them.

Stop Wanted/Sale posts from showing up when the "New Posts" button is used. Is there a way to exclude the Wanted/Sale posts from showing up when the "New Posts" button is used? Perhaps two buttons? "New Posts" and "New Ads"

Do not use ether if there is a chance even one glow plug is working. http://www.steelsoldiers.com/cucv/67012-click-click-boom.html#post802869

Yes that is the one lone 24V fuse that you replaced. These were posted by others and I just save and regurgitate them.

Manuals always help.

Double check that your current driver's side alternator is an isolated ground unit.

Download the CUCV TMs and use the troubleshooting sections in them. Download CUCV TMs Here - Where to Download CUCV TMs

Stock CUCV has a 24V starter. Download the CUCV TMs and read them. http://www.steelsoldiers.com/cucv/67999-download-cucv-tms-here-where-download-cucv-tms.html#post818566 What do you mean skipping?

Yes, if not having it allows the red/white ground wire to contact the alternator frame/body. In a stock 24V system the ground terminal of the passenger alternator is connected to the positive terminal of the front battery (not directly) so that you can read 12V from that passenger side ground...

Turning the key to "run" without running the truck MAY damage glow plugs. If the truck is cold enough to cycle the glow plugs leaving the key in the "run" position (without the engine running) can damage the glow plugs according to the TM.

There is a post on here where a member just discovered by accident that that the light switch knob turns to adjust the dash light brightness so since you did not state that you had already replaced the lamp it sounded like a reasonable suggestion to me. When coming to the forum with a problem...

Buy that lamp, a 3-prong receptacle and some military connectors of the proper gender (to mate with the truck wiring). Make up a short jumper with the 3-prong connector on one end and the military connectors on the other. No cutting of the stock truck wiring and it can be restored to military...

Nice looking truck.

Good intentions gone bad I guess. I have yet to need to delve into the fuel system so I cannot offer much help at this time.

So what you are saying is that the ignition key switch was put in the run position, the glow plugs did their thing and then the wait light went out? Then when you turned the ignition key switch to the start position you heard a "clunk" and the starter motor did not turn the motor over, not even...

So your mechanic rewired your truck to send 12V to the existing 24V starter without authorization?