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She is truly a Joy-ce.

The sample I used is in the second picture, partially obscured by the sample card. It is a floodlight off of a tank. The lighting is a bit off, but I agree with you that it is darker, it is the exact shade I wanted. I have noticed that some of the more recent examples of 383 Green CARC coming...

The quality of the work that I have seen coming of Red River is fair to poor at best. I would be happy to back that up if anyone takes issue with it. I believe our men deserve the best we can give them and I assert that they are not always getting it.

Sherwin Williams Paint Codes for 383 Green and Flat Black Sherwin Williams did a great job of matching 383 Green for me today. I used their Exterior Resilence which is known for it's quick resistance to water spotting after just a few hours of drying. Edit: removed photo of mix code. Updated...

Sherwin Williams makes it but they won't sell it to me even though we have an OEM account there. They say that the sales are restricted.

The quality of crude oil at the wellhead in the USA varies dramatically. In Railroad Valley Nevada I have seen the nastiest crude imaginable, it was mostly paraffin, and just 50 miles north or so, the lightest and sweetest crude I have ever had the privilege to refine. The former you...

What You ^^ Said. Put some heat on the plug. Hit it with a hammer. Try again. I have a practice that I have adopted from working on heavy equipment for many years. It goes together with either Red Loctite or Antisieze.

Got two of the new ones on there. So. Pretty.

Actually, we had a meetup there last Saturday. Steve1031 and Young Gun came by Newberg Tire Factory where I was getting the 1600s put on. So we decided to stop by McKenzie after that.

Fixed the date. Saturday March 10th.

I'll throw one out. Saturday March 10th, 2:00 PM at the McKenzie Pub in Sherwood. ~Lots of parking there, good food and beer. Peanut shells on the floor kind of place.

Bring that M109 here to Oregon for a day or three OPCOM and we will fix her right up. Sheet metal is the fun and easy stuff. Can we join your club from afar? Just pay dues and make comments and stuff? Would hate to miss out on anything. :popcorn:

Thanks for the idea. I will leave them outside where it's cold.

Spent some time today on this issue with a couple of old time tire guys. The consensus is that you should have about .5" to compress the rubber beadlocks. Mine are too wide, I am going to trim about 3/4" off with a Skilsaw this weekend. Will let you know how it goes.

Well my guess is to allow .5" to .625" extra width on the beadlocks for some big push against the beads but I am hoping that someone with actual technical expertise in this area will weigh in. BTW, the two rubber beadlocks I have are both made by Hutchinson. They are also a big innertube maker.

I used to be an operator in an oil refinery. Some of the crude we got in was nasty, really high parafin content. Loads we would get from another oilfield were so light and sweet you could just about burn it in a gas engine. One of the design criteria of the multifuel engine was to be able to...

OK, that's what I figured;;; So if one is doing the calculations before cutting. HEMTT wheel 10" wide 1600.20 tire beads 2" wide each [or whatever they are I have to go measure] That leaves 6" for beadlocks plus what you need to allow extra to put pressure on the beads. So here is a...

Was just discussing this very issue with another member last night. I am not a bead lock expert, so this is second hand... There are many different tire bead widths. You do want some compression, but if the bead lock is too wide you can cut it down. Skilsaw was suggested to me.

Generally speaking, if a truck has broken or bent drivelines and a mangled step, it has been moved by a careless forklift operator. This is very common. All kinds of damage that is hidden is also quite likely. If you haven't personally inspected it and verified otherwise, expect the worst.