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I do have a question. You stated you did all the underside painting. Do you do any kind of sand blasting? I have a 1986 M1009 that I would like to paint the underside but there is a fair amount of surface rust. Thank you for your time.

WOW. That is one awesome M1009.

I had the same questions as well. Thank you for the replies, pics and part numbers.

I replaced the inner fenders on my M1009. When I removed the old passenger side one, I noticed how accessible the fuel pump was, so I replaced it. I would suggest it would be a good time to replace your fuel pump if original. Just a suggestion.

I have one I can send you.

Do you have the part numbers from Orielly's? I have been trying to find the parts for the exhaust for my M1009. Thank you.

That is a good looking truck. Thank you for posting pics and the updates.

Thanks for the update. It is good thing to get these old trucks running again.

I had the same issue with my 86 M1009 it had a push button and hard starting problems. Do you have a GP contoller card? If so you can look at getting the wiring back to stock, then you can use the TM's to diagnose your issue. I suggest printing out the wiring diagrams and see what has been done...

What does that 4 mean? I have a 4 on my right fender as well. The best I can tell my M1009 came from a National Guard unit in Indiana. The bumper number/marking is "38 38 MSB". I think the MSB may stand for Medical Support Battalion". Thanks.

I replaced the core support bushings on my M1009. Not as daunting as I thought, not easy, but not horrible. I can think of much worse ways to spend a Saturday afternoon.

I got a fuel pump push rod from Kascar Real 4WD. They sell HMMWV parts, but the part number from the CUCV TM is the same as listed on this website. Quick shipping. I ordered 2 to have a spare. https://real4wd.com/store/catalog/search.aspx?keywords=fuel+pump+push+rod

I had the same issue. The ground wire for Gen 1 was bad. I looked closely at the ends at the connectors and noticed "green stuff" where the wire strands were crimped in the connector. So I assumed this corrosion had gotten farther into the wire. I replaced with, if I remember right, an 8 gauge...

I had a similar issue with my M1009 brakes of a "crunching" sound the last few feet when coming to a stop. I removed the calipers and found a mouse skull between the rotor and backing plate:shock:, on one side, that was not the source of the sound, just a funny thing to find. I eventually...

I agree. Very fair price and fast shipping.

I just had a similar issue. My Gen 1 light would only come on at start up at times, not every time. I chased it down to the bulb socket brass "clips" that the bulb sits in the socket were slightly corroded. A few seconds with a small file and now the system works again.

Hillbilly Wizard out of PA. The last time I looked he had cores and rebuilt ones for sale. I have also seen the case halves on a big auction site and the rebuild kits on the same site.

Always good to hear about solving a problem. One day, soon after getting my M1009, I was lamenting to my wife," I just want it to work!", she said, "well, you did want something to work on". Good job. Thanks for posting the fix.

I agree. I converted my M1009 from 12 volt, BACK TO 24 volt. I had to get another alternator, starter and resistors/bracket. It really did not take that long, once I had all the parts. I was very fortunate, the PO did not cut any wires when he converted it to 12 volt. It starts so much easier, I...

Did you replace the connector for the temp sensor? I replaced that same temp sensor and the connector as the new sensor is different. The connector wiring on my old connector was corroded d/t torn wiring insulator.