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Here are the pump tach fitting and cable images. Despite the similar shape of the cable end and the pump socket, the end is too small in diameter by itself to be engaged. In the pump picture, I partly uscrewed the nut there. It would normally be screwed down correctly. It was 70 deg yesterday...

The idea is to survive the collision. Brakes control the vehicle, but not all can stop quick. I try to watch out for idiots but they can sneak up on you and do things that become impossible to come out well.

How is that done? Is there a stop-screw or something? Is there a TM on it?

This covers some troubleshooting to diagnose a no-crank issue on a M818 with the Cummins NHC-250. SITUATION: The starter is heard to click and engage but the engine does not turn. There might be a sizzling noise or not after a second or two. (do not lean on the starter like that..) First...

The results of the tests: The starter solenoid contacts are bad. When acivated, it engages the gears but does not supply adequate power to the starter. When the war emergency contacts are engaged, the truck starts right away. I need a solenoid. In case anyone has one lying around they don't...

yes but it poops. I installed a deadbolt in the drivers door. http://www.bunkerofdoom.com/mil/m35/lock/index.html

This is a military vehicles forum only, like an old car club but with better cars. Firearms offers or wants are forbidden, even as jests. One reason for the rule is liability. Another is that the authorities assume whatever they wish when reading the printed word and usually have no sense of...

I will be testing it this weekend. I bought a 500 amp load tester.

sounds like the good ol boy there thinks he's gotcha coming and going. Smart feller. well I don't think they are worth $2000 in tin. I guess he would rather scrap them than sell them for the same amount plus a little profit. Same kind of guy wanted $7500 for an M109 with rust holes in the body...

ouch.

That is not all. The engine will not crank. It is either a cable end, the starter solenoid, or the starter. I will determine which, by checking voltages during attempts to crank, and will fix it myself or have a reputable shop fix it and the bad shop pay it. That is one of the things I may...

That is good to know. I never got much water from the M35's primary. Here in TX I do not seem to see this issue. I was told to check for water when the truck is running, otherwise it can loose prime. I'll check it before too long.

I have some evidence I was grossly overcharged by the diesel shop or both parts and labor. I don't want to say more now, but the job was very costly ($1600 for the pump does not include labor and is not the entire bill by a mile), the labor was far more than quoted as was the pump, although a...

Thank you for the notice. I do not get to read all the threads as I would wish. There are so many threads daily, that they often are scrolled a couple pages down by the time I can get to the BBS. The VIC-4 components are listed here: Installing Aux. 24V and 12V Power and an AN/VIC-4 Intercom in...

I hope I can be at the next one.

and

To be clear, the destruction of the pump was done before we even bought the truck. The truck did not run, and said "won't start" at GL. It was bought with this defective pump, and the pump did not deteriorate further once we had the truck. It just "was". I think it was a bad rebuild, or was...

By downstream, where do you mean? tank-to-pump? elsewhere? That is very interesting and I thank you for getting opinions. Before the repairs, it had some 6-8 tanks of fuel run through it. The repairs included completely new and modern type of fuel line from the tank to the pump, a...

it started 'cold' today without delay. 60 degrees.

Do I need to remove the tank? In any case, first I better look inside again with a flashlight. It seems to be clean but who knows, the whole thing cannot be seen. I did away with the stock filter and put a new spin-on one in on the advice of the shop. They did the job, made up the bracket and...