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Interesting, who would have thought it was so simple as a pinched needle. I would have spent hours tracing wires and uttering new curses. Did I understand correctly that the volt meter is made to read 24 vote but is somehow reduced inside to receive and show a 12 volt reading?

Now that is a cool project! The Behr paint looks really good from the pictures, nicely done sir! :beer: Did you paint the other two rigs the same way? Wonder if those fancy pads would do as well as the roller... Zombie avoidance and team extraction vehicle!

[thumbzup] wow! One of the best Camo jobs I've seen!

Welcome to SS! In response to you question I'll echo tgtaylor that the GP Controller/card is a very robust design when it is functioning properly. I strongly encourage you to consider getting a new GP card (CUCV electric or other) and follow the troubleshooting guide instructions. Not only...

Welcome! My m1009 came from Alaska too. Don't regret the purchaee at all, its been great! Welcome to the site and enjoy your new hobby! Oh, be sure to download the tech manuals and read them! I've gotten great help from this site, CUCV electric and the wisdom of many on this site!

Get the whole set, you never know when you'll see another decent set of seats!

Thanks! I had heard that but after a few wacks with the hammer and punch it just didnt feel right. The pin looks rusty. A little PB penetrator might help. I'll try a large punch and get back with resuts. Thanks again!

Last week I drove a 1985 M1009 all day on highway and on forest roads. Full of gear, high elevation and high temps. Went 60 to 65 most of the way there and back on the highway. Drove like a dream. Best to avoid anything over 70 for long periods of time. Just not worth the wear and tear.

That was the main issue with my rig. Once I found someone who was 'into' the 6.2 in my small town, the right mechanic was all over it. After several other fuel delivery fixes and the sad news that the previous owner used really bad bio-diesel that also killed the core's value (a loss of $280...

Seem to be having troubly uploading photo

Learing to MIG weld is manly....might make the wife pregnant again...

Gentlemen, I have researched other CUCV threads and had difficulty finding out how to remove the shift lever arm. The Chiltons manual and the TMs are not clear on this procedure. Or maybe I've been spending too much time on the project and my brain is mush?! :deadhorse: Either way, I am...

Outstanding! Tell us about that soft top...you like it? Is it loud like an old jeep or pretty tight? Easy up and down, let us have the scoop brother! :beer:

Well done sir! Looks like it got warm enough to paint! Keep us posted!!!

BigRix - Very well done sir! Rust repair can be very frustrating, but, like marraige, very rewarding too! :mrgreen: I applaud your decision to do the 12 volt conversion. It has helpee me to unravel numerous issues. Looks great sir!:beer:

All these examples are good ways to go. I used Herculiner on a pickup a few years back. Worked well but it seemed to wear poorly. But that was exposed to the weather (Pacific Northwest), ATV, wood and other junk in and out. For the M1009 I am working on now, I stripped out the interior...

Well done! I' d be interested in some templates :D

Forgot too mention... I had areas in the windshield like this. I went to a junkyard and cut out the areas from a rust free donor. Then as mentioned above, wire wheel, grind cut, weld, .... Will need the apply a good rust inhibitor all around before final sealing. Eastwood has some stuff with...

Yes, bad but not worth putting the patient down! It can be fixed, just takes time and patience and a good mug welder. A welder I am not but...I cut out and ground away rusty areas a lot like this then spent hours cutting metal pieces to fill. A friend with welding talents is on the way! Good...

Hey BigRix, your exhaust looks great too, was it the stock diameter or did you go 3 inch? Good work on the console by the way!