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Without looking at the TM, I think the 004 has a Roosa Master/Stanadyne IP. If it does a basic overhaul kit is about $25 and you can rebuild it yourself if you're mechanically inclined. No joke, if you can rebuild a carb you can rebuild one of these simple IPs. Give me the number off the IP and...

The problem with rust like that is it is usually much worse behind what you see. You could just wire brush and sand it as good as you can and fill it with Duraglas. It's not the best way but Duraglas holds great if you get most of the rust out of the repair and it should last for years.

I've seen stuff like this happen before. Unless you have some deep pockets or can get the public (more than just your neighbors) behind you, you are likely to loose. You'll more than likely win in court but it's very costly to that route and win. You may want to contact the local paper and...

I don't understand that statement. How can the person that sells off-road fuel possibly control what you put the fuel in? I could understand if they knowingly watched you pour off-road into a road vehicle but if you put it in a container to take home I don't see how they could be held...

Is there a truck in that pic?

I'd say technically you'd be in violation of the tax laws. It would probably depend on how bad the cop wanted to bust you (some cops are "by the book" and I'd bet you'd get a ticket). You should be able to win in court though but it would still be a major pain fighting it. All that being said...

IMO, it would be too much trouble to try and put a M929 or similar military hoist under the cargo bed. I've converted many deuces but haven't tackled a 5-ton yet. The best/strongest setup is a telescoping cylinder in the front. A scissor hoist will work fine also, just make sure you size one...

:ditto:

After watching your and Soni's threads, it amazes me how much frame space you gain by going with a cab forward design.

The best wire would be stainless. That being said, regular steel wire will work, it will just rust.

I do this on every M939 truck I get my hands on. The interlock can be problematic due to faulty button, faulty wires, air solenoid not working, or sticking air cylinder. There's really no reason for it to be on there so I disable it.

Around here you can get by with just two stock batteries (6TL) but I don't know if it would work in CT in the winter.

You can pull the hub without removing the tire. It's a little hard to deal with because of the extra weight of the tire but it can be done.

Mine was starting hard. Come to find out the screen on the bottom of the in-tank pump had gummed up from all the crap in the tank.

Try shifting when the truck isn't running and has zero air pressure. If it will shift then, you're having problems with your interlock (which I suspect is the case). In my opinion you'd be better off to just do away with the interlock. Look toward the front top of the t-case and you'll see what...

That's some crazy suspension setup. Kind of looks like some sort of independent suspension.

While I guess anything is possible, it wouldn't be a easy chore to try and convert over to fully electric brakes. It wouldn't be just a bolt-on project.

You can build a multifuel to turn some crazy RPMs and HP if you throw enough money at it but at the end of the day it would be cheaper and easier just to throw a 5.9 Cummins or a DT466 IH in there and be done with it.

I also think $350 is a great deal. If it were closer I'd be interested. If you buy them all and we can figure out a economical way to get them to me, I'd take the ones you don't want off your hands. Like Gimpy said, parts are going to get harder to come by because Onan doesn't supply them anymore.

I know a guy that had a car (don't recall what engine) and he thought it would be a good idea to get a high volume oil pump. The first time he took it out when he really got on it the oil pressure dropped to zero. Come to find out it was pumping so much oil that the oil wasn't having time to...