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The way I understand it, the torsion bar only controls the valving. The shaft goes straight through so even if the torsion bar broke you would still have manual control. I'm seriously considering this setup (Woodward servo). I may need to start a new thread but I'd like to talk about some...

If you have a M932 (M931 with winch) you already have your hyd pump problems solved. You'd have to add another valve and a bigger hyd tank though. I've pulled a bunch of civilian trailers with a M931 without issues but I've heard that with a A1 or A2 with super singles you can run into...

I kind of agree with WM. The pics of the ramps on a deuce just look like a disaster waiting to happen. I regularly haul a tractor between my place and my Dad's. I've thought about building a earth loading dock on each ends for the deuce to haul the tractor but like WM says, it's just easier to...

I don't think there would be any timing involved in a servo system. The one I listed in the link is also fully adjustable. You would need to size your cylinder correctly though.

I'm not necessarily disagreeing with you but I am curious as to why you think the Ross box is a better route? I'm leaning toward the servo at the moment but I still could be persuaded otherwise.

Almost all the stuff I've got from GSA was parts machines. It would just cost more to get it in good shape than it was worth but I figured that going in. I did get a M149 water buffalo that was in decent shape. It had several parts missing and was weathered quite a bit but it sold for far less...

:ditto: GSA stuff tends to be of lesser quality than what you find at GL. These agencies get the stuff from DRMO and their maintenance program isn't usually as good as the military. You also can regularly find civilian mods, some of which were very crudely done. Most of the deuces I've seen...

Here is a servo valve I came up with- http://woodwardsteering.com/images/power%20steering%20system%20components.pdf Looks like this may be a good option. It's cheaper than the torque generators I've found and it will not put any more stress on the stock steering box (it will actually lessen...

That makes sense to me. I knew about some of the problems you mentioned (fixed displacement of orbital valves and difference in displacement on each side of cylinder) but haven't really thought it through. I was worried about this anyway and you confirm my suspicions.

The way the torque generator works is it uses hyd pressure to assist on the output, it's all self contained (no cylinder the drag link or tie rod). During normal driving, it's unlikely that the torque generator would put any more stress on the stock steering gear (it takes "X" amount of torque...

I went back a re-looked at my info, I was wrong (they called the battery a Hawker but upon further inspection it's a flooded cell battery). The closest thing I found to a Hawker is $520...

It just means they have their batteries overpriced on the front end if they are deducting the core off the price of the new battery. If they are adding the core price on top of the new battery price, they are just trying to make a fortune on you for not having a core. Toby, yes I usually have...

That's the only down side I see with air brakes. True but everybody flat tows deuces with deuces (13,000lb). Yes, it's much easier to just pull the axles than the driveshaft (unless we are talking about a M1009).

I'd just get them to build you one with straight air brakes. Much better than surge or electric and you've already got the air on the deuce. Most trailer manufacturers offer air brakes on their trailers.

In my opinion, Hawkers are great batteries but they aren't worth what they cost. I've seen them priced on the internet for $330 each. I can almost buy 4 group 31 batteries for what 1 hawker cost.

You may be able to get it hauled cheaper than you can drive it. Driving it you'll have fuel cost, wear and tear (5-ton trucks are kind of hard on tires on the hwy), and hotel expenses. If you have a breakdown expenses can go up really fast. You also need to figure in your time that ought to be...

True. You usually don't run into a hitch weight problem on a semi trailer because the axles are usually mounted near the rear of the trailer and usually has close to 50% of the load on the truck. Truckers place the load and move the axles to get max payload without going over max axle weights...

I looked it up, it's a restricted manual. I did pull up several hits when I googled "Cat 3306 manual" through civilian sources.

A 20' container frame will be pretty weak if you cut the sides off of it. The sides are a load bearing member. Also, you could probably build a flat bed cheaper than you could buy a 20' container (they usually go for pretty good money). I'd either build a flat bed or pick up one of the ones...

The remove and replace procedure should be in the TM. I wouldn't know where to start as I haven't ever pulled a Cat IP.