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Just go to NAPA and tell them you need nuts and/or thimbles for bud wheels. I'm not saying there aren't some out there but every truck (civilian or military) I've ever seen with bud wheels used the same nut and thimble. Just remember to get left handed ones for the drivers side.

Didn't have the camera today but I'll take some and post up.

Well I got the whole setup installed on the truck today. Everything works great. It's not as good as true PS but you can't beat it for a freebie. Because the unit came off a old bus, I had to fab up a cylinder anchor point and change the drag link ends. I just cut up another drag link I had...

If it's a factory tanker it should have at-case PTO, that alone is worth $500. I think the most (if not all) fuel tankers are stainless but some of the water trucks have aluminum tanks. I know a old M50 I've got has a AL tank.

I just think it would be much easier (and probably cheaper) to buy a 5-ton if you want 5-ton axles.

I installed the torque valve today and ran it on shop air just to see if it would work. I'm getting good air out of the port in tension (left turn) but I'm not getting much air in compression (right turn). I think I'm going to go ahead and put it all together, add lots of air tool oil, and hope...

Yea, there's a sticker on it that says "do not disassemble, return to factory for repairs" but I figure that if somebody built it, it could be repaired. I know it was free but I don't want to tear it up if I can help it.

Anybody ever torn into a Ait-O-Matic unit? Not the cylinder but the drag link. I was all ready to do a hyd PS setup but while looking in a truck junk yard today I run upon a old bus that has a Air-O-Matic unit on it (this is the first time I've ever seen one of these on a civilian vehicle). I...

Here is some good reading on engine life- http://www.steelsoldiers.com/showthread.php?12029-Multifuel-engine-life&highlight=mileage

I don't know, the actual parts that do the "wrecking" seem to be ok (boom,winch,etc), the rest, not so much.

Thanks for the responses. It seems to me it would be safe to run 3 wires, remove the neutral bond, and ground the generator to earth (ground rod). It seems to me that if the generator is grounded to earth and the panel is grounded to earth, it's the same as running a wire. I'm not really worried...

Munchies, I see what you're saying but it kind of contradicts the above post. I'm mainly interested in the second drawing. I already have some 6/3 SO cord (that I got free) that I'd like to use so I'd like to use a 3-wire setup if I could.

I'm getting ready to hook my 003 up to the house and have read this whole thread several times. I do better with pics than I do text though. I've made some crude drawings on what I take is the two different ways to tie the 003 into the house wiring. Comments or suggestions are welcome.

Jim, That's exactly what I'm talking about. I think I'm going to add a frequency meter also because I've got a extra.

There's one in every crowd. :)

After having my 003 for a year now, I'm finally getting around to hooking it up to the house. How is everybody monitoring and balancing the load between each leg? Is it really that critical? What I've been thinking about is mounting a box beside the house panel and putting two ammeters on each...

I'm pretty sure I read somewhere that the deuce is rated for full engine hp off the t-case PTO. I don't know about the 5-tons. Toby, It just depends on how complicated and "bells and whistles" you want. You are right that while a closed center system is a lot more complicated (and usually...

That's going to be the problem on all but stationary equipment. On a tractor you have a pretty good view of the 3-point equipment. I'd suspect you'd have a heck of a time even hooking up a implement without some help. It would be almost impossible to use something like a 3-point grader blade...

Be careful if your push button switch is acting up. They've been known to catch fire. Personally, I'd toss it and put a 3-lever in there.

Eastern Surplus appears to be using some type of poly bushing to support the shaft inside the cut tube. This may work but I'm wondering if a bearing would be better suited for this. Any wear in this area is going to result in slack in steering.