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I always had trouble counting. How many more rear axles? If its just one, how would you suspend it? Two more might be easier with the whole suspension system.
Double steering is one thing that sounds easy, but tie rods and drag links might get complicated. Hydralic controls might be the way...
Buy new stuff. The proper line for the winch is "6x19" (that is six fat ones made up from 19 small ones). Its plow steel and has abraison resistance/rope core. Seems like 220' will fit on the Garwood, but that is crowded, 200' is better.
Lee in Alaska.
Seems like there is also a 245. Seems like the Canadians used a slightly larger version. Also the 230 can be bored some. The bottom line on the flatheads (for me at least) is that there is no measureable difference in performance. The truck was built for Off Road, with some On Road capacity...
If you use the plastic tubing, it MUST say DOT on it. While the DOT rated plastic brake line tubing is not conventional on the MV's, it has replaced copper tubing in later vehicles. It is vibration and corrision proof, and resists all fluids found around highway vehicles.
Lee in Alaska
When you get into northern BC, Yukon, and Alaska, fuel or gas will be closer to $4.50 in the "out of the way" spots. Its about $3.80 in Fairbanks. A more accurate way to estimate fuel costs is to double the price, for what you think you will need. Its always more then what you can imagine...
I shoot for zero to .005 end play! You can't hardly feel that. The reason that you tighten the inside nut, tight while turning the wheel assembly, is to get the rollers to climb up the race incline, and seat against the shoulder, where they are supposed to run.
There is slack in the nut...
I think he means that coolant got into the cylinders and it can't compress the stuff - so the engine is locked up (probably amongst other things).
Good Luck
Lee in Alaska
Playing dumb, only gets you so far. Then its push time. As some have done here, its best to stop by a scale (in the family car), and ask what they will require of you.
Make notes and get the Guy's name/date and time. Carry that stuff with you. They appreciate your trying.
Lee in Alaska
Hit one end with a hammer. That will rotate it in the slot. Then lay a cold chisel as flat to the shaft as possible, and smack it. That will jack it right out.
Lee in Alaska
I have used a piece of saw blade to slide in there to cut things loose. Also, I have used the trick Jones describes. 4x4 blocks, I found work best - 3 or 4 of them. Another variation is to support the wheel (like with a smaller car wheel), so that it is up off the ground letting the tire's...
I think the brakes would work, but you might overload the 105 frames, with the larger bed- but maybe not. Seems like the 105's bed is about 9' long, but narrower then the M35 bed. The Deuce air system will handle it. But if you put a load on it like in your avitour, you will surely overload...
I don't agree, Numbers! Just go ahead and take the hood off. It won't be needed again anyway.
Seriously, everybody wants to make a race car out of something closer to a sled. Rigged right, it would move your house without a hitch, before it would do 70.
Lee in Alaska
Farmer type characters used things like that to transport implements to the field, namely a set of harrows. Sometimes they were pulled along with the implement. Good find. I'd like to have it for that purpose. Keep up the good work.
Lee in Alaska
The problem is in the Hi/Lo range linkage. Maybe in the tower. The tranny is OK because it works in Lo range. Just calm down and enjoy the situation. She'll be OK and be working soon.
But check the adjustment in the TM. But its in the linkage on the back of the tranny.
In the old days, I...
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