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We already have Ariel Photo's and other surveillance. We even have people who've cased the place. Wouldn't be hard to move all that in one night, considering the GIANT ARMY of trucks we all have at our disposal (all members of SS). I live in Canada, so I can't bring one home across the boarder...
I add 1 quart 2 stroke oil to every tank. New diesel doesn't have enough lubricants for older Injector Pumps. I figure that if 2 stroke oil at 50:1 mix can lube the crankcase on my chainsaw enough to keep it working, 100:1 should save my injector pump. I wouldn't burn fuel without a lubricating...
A small block Bolts up to engine mounts and tranny without modification. You'll want a new torque converter and probably a new tranny governor. (or else your gasser will shift early like the diesel did). Flush the fuel tank well if you reuse it.. Diesel in a gasser is bad. Might need vapor...
My turn signals always work without the key in. I wouldn't be too concerned about the water in fuel light, I just check mine every so often. (replaced my filter system with a spin on and didn't want to pay $80 for the sensor). But, if you like it: there is a 3 prong plug that comes out of your...
My M1009 had the rifle rack still installed. Nothing else at all that should've been in there. Had an axe holder installed beside the drivers seat. Thought that was cool, truck was ex-fire dept. Oh, and I found an empty condom wrapper and rubber glove inside the tailgate when I fixed the roll up...
45 Quarts! I'd filter that and put it in my M1009, that's half a tank of fuel. Never heard of a standard with a torque converter.. Just let off the gas to shift? no clutch I guess..
I heard these trucks have a different prop. valve for the breaks than the civvy ones.. I heard that the civvy one's have some adaptive system to put more power to rear brakes when the truck is angled up at the front (more power to lowest wheels = better stopping). And that these trucks don't...
I'd check that the relay under the dash is working. (the one that would be replaced by the DH relay if you did that) and then check for power on the thin wire going to the starter while key turned to start. If both check out, I'd think the starter solenoid is the problem.. Not sure if you can...
Correct, those should be 12volt headlights.
I haven't seen LED replacements, but I have seen HID replacements for those. Also seen a housing that took a halogen H4 bulbs, the housing was the same size as the old sealed beam. The idea is that you can get brighter H4 bulbs than sealed beams. I...
Or you could "crack" (slightly loosen) compression fitting on each injector while it's running, one at a time. (then retighten and crack the next one) (cracking them makes them leak fuel and stop injecting into cylinder, basically turns off the cylinder) Each injector should slow the engine down...
Didn't mean to be disrespectful, I apologize. I have respect for anyone brave enough to try to fix stuff on their own.
Is there power to the small wire on the starter when to turn the key to start? Is there power at the battery cable on the starter? Is there 12volts on one of the big terminals...
I agree Dave.
That's what I meant. The 4 pin under the dash that I was going on about is the starter relay. I.C.E = "round plug thing" (sorry for not using the proper terms)
I agree, sounds like the starter could be the problem. Maybe check for power at the starter wires before pulling the starter, just incase it's the under dash starter relay. Do you hear any clicking or anything when you turn the key to "start"? (you might have to unhook your glowplug relay to...