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My problem is I don't have the loop back plug! If I did I would be very tempted to leave it as is. I would like it back to stock though just to be able to have a working wiring diagram. It would help for troubleshooting now and in the future. I agree that the meters appear to be hooked in series...

Guyfang I agree in theory I should be able to take it all off and have it back to stock. I just am not sure if they modified the harness someplace else other than what's connected to the remote plug. Appreciate the help!!

You are answering my questions on another thread but the first post on here has been the only info I could find on it. Google brings up no help with those numbers for manuals or parts.

I did see at the end of the thread where is showed Fastenal had screws. I'll just go that route to put it back together. Most of mine are stainless already with a 2010 build date. Probably the replacement ones that aren't

Actually going through the manuals again today. Here is the plate from when it was on the auction site. The unit is over at the shop but you can read manufacture date and model on this

That has the details of what they are for sure. I was hoping someone had found a website to order screws, washers, and nuts from as a package of 50 or something.

Not sure what the clear circuit breaker looking things are in picture 5 yet but the one on the left is different than the others for sure.

Wiring schematic looks like the stock one. Other plates had replacement plates stuck over them to update the plates to spec that they were using. The plate for the securing it has another one stuck over it with the trailer example shown because it was stuck on a trailer.

I do not want it. It was done very neatly when it was installed. It appears from my research that you need to have it plugged in or have a bypass plug in order for it to even start and work. It would be easy enough to take it off, but I am not sure if there were any changes in the original...

I just got a 803a with the same thing. Anyone figure out how to remove it?

I just came to the same conclusion. I found a thread where 2 people had them but no mention of how to resolve it. It won't work in it's current configuration according to them. Body bolt...the 5/16 bolts holding the aluminum skin on

I'll have to get some. Didn't want to get diesel on my phone while I was going through it

Oh and no sign of any water in the muffler, engine oil, or when it cranked. Thankfully the banged up exhaust door seems to have kept it out!

Ok I went through it today. It looks to be intact and in pretty good shape. The quad fuse is in, but since it was a late 2010 manufacture date I was expecting it to be. Changed all filters and filled fluids. Air filter was brand new. It had a Kubota oil filter on it for some strange reason too...

Wasn't so much concerned with the engine side as the electrical side. Things like the quad fuse or other items that could cause a lot of damage in a hurry!!

That is a great idea!

Overall it doesn't look to bad. Some fasteners are pretty rusty so I planned on ordering those. No batteries so I still have to procure those. I have all the manuals that I could find (and from the posts here that listed all them) downloaded and gone through in the last year. Thanks to post on...

I didn't think of wiping the fuel tank out but it makes sense that there would be dirt in there. No way it's getting hooked to the house till it has had some run time and load tested. Once it is online I have enough electric draw on the house to exercise it. Not chancing any of the house though!

New to the forum but I've read a ton of stuff here over the last year watching auctions to get an 803 close to home. I finally got one with just under 1000 hours on the meter that looks pretty good, but I couldn't read the date code on it (probably why it went as cheap as it did). It came from...