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The crossover airline is 10mm ID. It is mild steel and corrodes easily. I purchased a 6 foot length of 10 mm ID 316 stainless steel tubing from Zoro. It is very difficult to bend so I also purchased a Ridgid tubing bender for 10 mm tubing with long arms and a Ridgid reamer for stainless steel...

Looking really good!

I have no idea whether there is an impeller in there or not. However, I have never heard any noise coming from that area on my A3. It's possible the noise is coming from something else and is being transmitted to that area. I would recommend that you find out what it is in case something...

I would start by talking with the previous owner if he is still available. Does it appear that everything is still there? It's possible the previous owner may have removed or modified some things. I would also read the TMs regarding removing and re-attaching the trailer portion.

Undoubtedly the parking brake.

I purchased my SEE in June this year. I've had no issues getting parts, but a few had to be ordered. 1. I had to replace the crossover air line with a stainless version because it was corroded closed and therefore no power brakes. I used 316 10mm SS. Pneumatic system and brakes work fine...

You mentioned that you did a pre-review non-running. Does this mean the SEE doesn't run, or that you were not permitted to start it? I would highly recommend that you don't make a purchase unless you can start and drive it and deploy the backhoe and make sure the loader works. Make certain...

My FLU419 came with Hawkers. I really like them. Very strong batteries and no electrolyte to check.

Welcome to the site. You will find a lot of good information and good people here. You just missed the Georgia Military Vehicle Rally. Hopefully, we'll see you next year.

Thanks Kenny. A fantastic job organizing this. It really brings back memories when going through.

I would have someone else turn the master on momentarily while you diagnose where the noise is coming from. That way, your helper can shut the master off immediately if needed before significant damage.

One thing I do with my MEP003A is exercise the switches every few months, just to keep them working good.

I drove an M35 gasser for awhile in the Army in the early 70s. From what I remember, 45 was about top speed unloaded and not much power. The M35 I drove was a Studebaker as well, but I have no clue as to what engine. I do remember the truck was very quiet and smooth while driving compared to...

I have my M35A3 registered that way as well. I can use the vehicle for any personal use, but no commercial use. Same with my State Farm insurance. The problem is that almost every state has different rules.

In Georgia the best way is to register it as a commercial vehicle for non-commercial use. Same with the insurance. Very inexpensive.

If the switch is actually stuck, you might want to try a can of aerosol contact cleaner.

Has the fuel density compensator been bypassed yet? This is a very common problem when the FDC leaks fuel into the crankcase. If the FDC hasn't been bypassed you should go ahead and bypass it. If it hasn't failed, it will fail in the future. You don't need the FDC for multifuel capability.

Due to low sulfur fuel and corresponding lack of lubricity of the fuel, I always add Opti-Lube XPD diesel fuel additive to the fuel on my M1030M1. In my opinion, this is the best diesel fuel additive around for lubricity. Also, never use the compression release lever while starting the engine.

Sometimes tires that look perfect can cause a shimmy. Try swapping the wheels from front to rear and see if you still have the shimmy. If the shimmy goes away, you know it was the tires or wheels.

Did the truck come from the military via auction or did you receive it from a previous civilian owner? If from a previous owner, I would talk with them about what you found.