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I got the aero turbine 3535. They also make the 3535xl which has a built in resonater. It would probably be a bit quieter than the 3535. The reason I chose the 3535 over the xl is the 3535 fits perfectly between the fender and the stack brace. The xl will require a bit more fab work to fit...

Egt's will climb much faster with any muffler that isn't a flow through design. Which is why I selected the aeroturbine. Most of the other full flow mufflers I found were glass packs. I hate glass packs.

Those tires can def be a workout to mount and dismount. Me and a buddy did all 7 of my 395's on a3 wheels. I have an aeroturbine muffler sitting on my bench. Haven't installed it yet so I can't say how well its going to work. If you don't pkan on turning the fuel up and quiet as possible...

True. Duals do seem to work better for heavy loads. Between twice the number of sidewalls and usually a shorter distance between tread and wheel they seem much more stable laterally. That being said, 395's for example, have a very high load range. The deuce isn't heavy enough or rated to...

Agreed. In fact I converted all of my fuel and oil filters to spin on's. Makes life much easier. Especially since they are all off the shelf filters at most of my local auto parts stores.

Well, where I live ground clearance is the way you get through the mud we have. If your not high enough to punch through the soup and grab the hard bottom you aren't going anywhere. If traction is an issue you can air down singles and your contact patch is still larger than duals. I think a...

Oem a3 wiper arm is 10 1/4". These are whats on my a2.

You can also open them up and clean the contacts with an emery board.

395's can be mounted on stock deuce wheels. You would need 13.00/14.00 radial tubes. I much prefer 2 piece super single wheels of some varient myself. The stock lock rings are a pain to deal with as far as I'm concerned.

I have a used one. I make no promises but its yours for the price of shipping.

Did you say your truck had a3 wipers? If it does I believe the linkage from the motor to the shaft in the window frame is adjustable.

The same way an incandescent lamp creates heat. As energy travels through the diode or filament about 25% of that energy becomes visible light. The rest of the energy is lost in the form of heat. In the case of an incandescent bulb the heat becomes infrared light. In led's the heat is...

They may not be. And I could be very wrong as to why they fail. As we have discussed before my autopsy of a trucklite led fixture wasn't nearly as enlightening as I had hoped. But I can tell you I saw no provision for heat dissipation. This can cause a spike in forward voltage and fry the...

I guess I should have elaborated a bit more. The led drivers and led's themselves operate on a fixed voltage and current regardless of imput voltage. The lightbar itself may not run much cooler but running on 24v is less of an amp draw than 12v. So by running the lightbar on 24v it will be...

I have one for the short airpak. I have no idea if they are the same or not.

Don't wire your lightbar 12v. They run cooler and more efficiently on 24v. As far as your harness and relay. Use all of it. Just wire it like you would on 12v.

I completely understand. If money wasn't an issue I have always thought an lly/lbz duramax with the allison 1000 would be awesome in a bobber. We can always dream right?

Have you considered using the nv4500?

When you put everything back together you slip the outer bearing in. Then squirt some rtv under the bearing in the slot. Then slip on the outer seal. Squirt some more rtv in the slot and thread on the first nut. Then slip on the retainer ring. Then a bit more rtv and the last nut.

The inner seal can be drove in by a 3 inch coupling and a length of pipe. NOT 4 INCH. In fact I glued a cap on also and just hit the cap with my 3lb hammer. Clean your bearings by dousing them in brake cleaner. Same thing with your brake shoes. As to the keyway slot. I have discovered the...