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Go ahead and mount them if you think they will fit. I have 395's on my truck and the bogies are only about an inch or 2 from rubbing. My buddy has 14.00x20's on his bobber and they are considerably taller. We both have like new michelin xzl's. 14.00x20's WILL NOT fit on a tandem deuce.

I don't know if I would use 16.00's but this mod would let you mount 14.00x20's no problem. That would be pretty awesome with 6x6.

I found that while adjusting my shoes it worked best if I alternated between top and bottom a little at a time. If I tried to do just one adjustor things got all out of whack. Hope that helps a bit.

Thats exactly what I did. I have eye hooks on the underside I use to secure the ramps to the deuce. I don't have a winch though. I just drive my atv in. I haven't tried this since I went from 9.00-20s to 395's. Probably gonna be pretty scary with the added height. I may need to build new...

Well if you wanna find it in my local landfill go right ahead lol. It was a royal pita the cut the first one open. Honestly, after researching on every electronics forum I could find, I'm just not motivated to try. I could easily spend hours pecking away at the potting compound when I could...

I only suspect it was bad grounds. Not positive. Mine were grounded to the frame. Thats why I preach running a ground to the battery. It helos rule that out as a possibility.

That may could work. After doing some reading I have come to the conclusion that heat is my only option. I know for a fact trucklite uses a hard epoxy to pot these fixtures. This stuff is almost impervious to most solvents. The solvents that will dissolve it are extraordinarily difficult to...

Somehow I feel that dunking a tail light into a bucket of gas or some other solvent will only make things worse. That being said keep the ideas coming. If we keep trying maybe we can eventually come up with something.

Yes we have a variable 0-36v dc power supply to do bench testing. The big issue is the expoxy encases everything from the tips of the leds back. Its about 1 3/4" thick. You can see through a window in the first layer that there is at least 2 layers (possibly 3) of circuitry. The epoxy is...

I actually decided to stop hacking at the backside because I started hitting the circuit board. I had to change my approach. I didn't want to since cutting on the sides is visible whereas from the back it could be hidden inside the bucket. I probably could get in from The back if I were to...

If you can find them for a deal then it is worth giving them a try. I mean this for the head lights and the turn signals. I would not pay full price. I don't believe the quality is there to justify the cost.

The only real way driving a deuce in awd would be a problem is if you were doing a bunch of tight turning maneuvers or if you had diff locks. Other than that the deuce doesn't care. Since you have power steering it really won't be a problem.

No problem at all Dip. Drive safe tonite.

Just kick it into awd before you head out. You have power steering and it won't hurt anything.

You must get out of the truck to engage them. They disconnect the drive shafts from the from wheels. This allows the front wheels to freewheel on the hubs. Meaning less rotating mass the truck has to fight with. Also, while steering most 2.5 ton rockwell axles have u joints inside the...

I hear you man. I have had my silicone ones on for a little over a year and they look good as new. But, I haven't off roaded the truck since I put them on.

Actually that only applies to the front. The rears you need to split then hub and drum. Unless you have a secret on how to get a stud through the 1/4" clearance between the hub flange and drum.

Yup. Unless your hubs are flipped. If you hubs are flipped you can do it on the truck. Unflipped you must remove the hub then unbolt the drum from the hub. Then pry them apart.

I either beat the studs out with a bfh if I know I won't be re using them. My preferred way is the harbor freight ball joint c-press. My crappy half inch impact will walk them out just fine. No damage to the stud. Then to reinstall the stud I just beat them in with a bfh.

Your fully assembled drums/hubs should spin freely after you pre load the bearings. If they don't something will get hot. Bottom adjustments should be at 20 thousandths and top should be at 10 thousandths. Then after they are set adjust the top to where you just barely hear/feel the shoe hit...