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I only drilled down until I hit powder so technically its still sealed. Should I just leave it alone or try and drive it in?

Got the remaining 6 GPs broke free and chased the treads in the first broken one. Made a big difference after chasing the threads. Tried drilling the broken extractor with Cobalt bits and does not seem like its ever scratching it. Anyone have any other ideas, I really do not want to pull...

Thanks, was trying to put my 6.2 donot J code into the M1009 late this afternoon and having some issues getting the THM400 lined up. Noticed the front driver side oil pan looked a little tight at the cross emeber but I'm not lined up on motor mounts yet either.

Will a 2wd 87 6.2 fit in a CUCV or are the oil pans different on 2wd and 4wd 6.2s?

I just bought a 87 3/4 Crew Cab for its engine and it was a J code. The only difference was gauge sending units, and CDR valve was behind the RH Alt rather then under the air cleaner. I've heard the same about the IP. Military uses all kinds of fuel grades and quality depending upon the supply...

Went to several places today including HArbor Freight, Tractor Supply, Farm & Fleet, O'Reillys, Advanced Auto Parts, Fastenal and ended up finding the tap in stock at Car Quest for $7.03 w/tax Got the CRC Freeze-Off at O'Reilly's for 4.99 Sprayed down the remaining three on the left bank...

Hey - Don't tempt me! Got to get the replacement 6.2 in before I start anything interior wise. It's not that hard (hardest part was getting the cab front corner and headliner curves close)The padded fabric edges filled in the gaps with the headliner.

I did this in the mid 80's out of 3/8 plywood, then covered the whole thing in a fabric from JoAnn Fabric in my GMC Jimmy to house my CB Radio, Offroad light switches and some map lights. Post trim hid the wiring and is readly available at a wrecking yard or eBay. Used 3" utility hinges in two...

I did a quick google search and my local O'Reillys carries CRC Freeze-Off Super Penetrant so I will get a can in the morning and give it a try. Yes the tap does not seem to be common, Just checked my small metric set and it has M10 but not the 1.0. Hopefully they have the 10X1.0 metric taps...

Fella's, Thanks for all the posts but yes they are rusted in not swollen so the puller will not work in this case. I hit them a few times tonight with PB Blaster and I'll soak them some more. Was hoping to get these swapped out so I can get the engine installed during my 5 day Holiday break...

Just went though the painstaking trouble of drilling out and extracting a broken GP in a 6.2. Looking at the rest they are pretty rusty and tried to remove the next one but it feels like it could snap as well. Is there any tricks to getting these out that are rusted in without breaking them...

I drove for years with a chuck out of the slip yoke end where a u-joint bit it on a lifted Blazer. Just keep an eye out for one but I would not be in any hurry as long as the clip still works in the grove and you do not have any noticeable vibration. Surly with all the bent CUCV shafts out...

I have a complete set I just removed from a CUCV engine I'm swapping with a Civy J Code 6.2. $50 plus shipping. Came off a 4X,XXX miles CUCV.

Thanks for confirming the cluster wiring question. I'm already planning factory A/C conversion, so wiring harness swap is in the plans now.

Turns out my Civy 6.2 is a J code engine. Did some checking over on the DieselPage.com and there is no difference between a Civy and Mil J code 6.2 except some bolt ons and plumbing.

May be hard to find, but the ambulance setup would be best to retain the alt if going civy route. I'm implanting a Cicy 6.2 so elimating the driver side Alt, and going strictly 12v.

Thats my plan, already have the boxes on either side of the firewall, ducts and dash controls, Just need the compressor/brkts, evaporator and hoses.

Thanks Fellas - I know about the market flooding of Humv take outs but I just bought a running 6.2 and plan to swap it in. Just wanted to know the plug n play factors.

I'll have to check but this is out of a 87 CCLB 3/4 ton but since its a Target not sure what model the engine actually is. Should I look at block castings or what other engine markings?

I tore the engine down a few weeks ago. Got to the point where I was ready to remove the RH head. Third pushrod from the front on the # 4 cyl was very rusty. Got the head off and was very surprised to find #6 and # 8 cyls very rusty and #6 definitely had something in it long enough to beat the...