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Did you install the button on top of the knuckle under the control arm. Look at the picture I posted before and I circled it. If you don't put the button spacer on top that can happen. It's the number R on the pic.
If your axle data plate says Rockwell over Timken then it has or had the ball type. If the tag says Rockwell over Rockwell it had the U joint style axles installed.
Can you washers be removed or are they welded on?
Thanks for the pic. Looks like your installing the axle seal the correct way but are you getting it bottomed out on the housing? Do believe you can switch out Timken axles for Spicer without any problems.
Does your axle have a removable spacer. Looks like the Timken has two removable washer...
When I had my Airman 185 cfm compressor I would use my one inch. I had the big hose and fittings so I had more than enough air to push it. Now I trust my truck four way and a four foot aluminum cheater above anything else.
I stand with Greg on this one. I hate crimp connectors as they can allow corrosion to get in or they let you down at the worst moment. I solder every connector and if you want real protection on you wiring get marine wiring as the whole wire is tinned.
Nice job on your converter box Greg aka...
Agreed. From what I have seen the back off is very important. If I remember it goes, take up the bearing to 100/150 fp. Back off then tighten to 50fp then back off 1/4. The problem I have see is way to much back off. On stuff that does not run our outer seal it calls for the same 1/4 back off so...
Agree and not to forget the TCM and other small trinkets. Mine just started to go and it cost $650 just for that plus $300 to program. I am glad I added the Edge Insight CTS2 as I can clear codes while on the fly as I had to do when the TCM was getting tired.
My TCM went out in the yard one day...